Thanks to Roger, Jim and Gina. I see the first piano today. I just need to build volume in one tenor area. I'll build the shoulders and go back Wednesday or Thursday to voice. It's an hour away. I tried to e-mail my question a couple of days ago, but my mail server was down. Please keep the info on lacquer coming, I'm still absorbing!!! Thanks, Lance Lafargue, RPT Mandeville, LA New Orleans Chapter lafargue@iamerica.net -----Original Message----- From: owner-pianotech@ptg.org [mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]On Behalf Of Eugenia Carter Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 6:58 AM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: Re: Lacquer for hammers ----- Original Message ----- From: Lance Lafargue <lafargue@iamerica.net> To: pianotech listserv (E-mail) <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Monday, August 28, 2000 9:28 PM Subject: Lacquer for hammers > Dear list, > I have used keytop/acetone for fifteen years now and am now convinced that > it creates more unwanted noise than lacquer. I am in the process of getting > used to using lacquer now. Well, it sorta depends on the kind of "noise" you want. :-) When I first started in this business, I listened to as many early recordings of the great pianists trying to hear/understand what those pianos sounded like. Then I started asking technicians what they used and why. Fred Drasche was probably the most instrumental person who influenced me. I came to the conclusion that the kind of "noise" I liked best was created by using lacquer/thinner. Over the years, I've tried sanding sealer and keytop solution. I still prefer lacquer to achieve the kind of "noise" I prefer. > 1) Why do some techs use sanding sealer instead of nitrocellulose lacquer? > Does it matter? See "noise" above. > 2) What is some advice you can give me on transfering the lacquer/thinner > from gallon can to a bottle for use. Be careful? :-) > 3) What kind of bottle do you use? Any available that has a spout and that you can easily see what you are mixing. My preference is a hair coloring bottle. It it clear plastic and has ounce slash levels like a measuring cup. > How long must it dry? Minimum of 24 hours, but it continues to "cure" forever, just as do almost all. > Do you ever put it on the strike point? No, as she nods her head in an up and down manner. It all depends on what you are attempting to achieve. The first, and maybe even the second pass, I apply to the shoulders, graduating upwards from the bass to the treble, higher on the shoulders. If afterwards a small, judicious application on the strike point is called for, then I do it. > What ratio? 4:1? 5:1? Never that strong. If the hammers are new and soft, as opposed to hard, the maximum I start with is 8/1. Usually I begin with a 10/1 mixture. Once you add hardener, it is there. Much better to apply in small doses, imho. > How long will it last after mixing sitting in the back of my truck? Don't carry this with me. Because of its drying time requirement and because I am extremely careful about adding a hardener solution, I never apply on a first visit. I need to understand the piano and its strengths and weaknesses before I put such a permanent application on the hammers. I want to ensure that hardening the hammers is the best solution, not a quick easy fix that may turn out to be the worst thing I could have done. My 2 cents, Gina
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