A couple raps on the appropriate keys and Roger could tell you steam or diesel, how fast it is going, and which way! Terry Farrell Piano Tuning & Service Tampa, Florida mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Ilvedson" <ilvey@jps.net> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 12:29 PM Subject: RE: Bridge gain delamination > It would sound more like a distant freight train...loss of power... > > David I. > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-pianotech@ptg.org [mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]On Behalf > Of Farrell > Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 2:32 AM > To: pianotech@ptg.org > Subject: Re: Bridge gain delamination > > > ">If there is a cap and it is not split, how would you see the seperation?<" > > I can't pass on this one: Gee Roger, if you can determine that a hammer > flange pinning is at 4 grams rather than the preferred 6 grams just by > listening to the not being struck, then can't you tell that a bridge is > delaminated just by listening?????????????? ;-) I think that would sound > perhaps like a freight train to those of you with the bionic ears! > > Terry Farrell > Piano Tuning & Service > Tampa, Florida > mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Roger Jolly" <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca> > To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 12:32 AM > Subject: Re: Bridge gain delamination > > > > Hi Terry, > > that's what I was thinking, with a fairly thin bridge cap > that > > exposes the laminations at the notch. > > If it is an exposed vertical lamination like Baldwin then the fix I > > suggested works well. If there is a cap and it is not split, how would you > > see the seperation? > > > > Mystified Roger > > > > > > At 10:54 PM 01/08/00 -0400, you wrote: > > >Yes, but in this case Roger was making the assumption that there was a > > >bridge cap.....like in a Steinway......... "<I presume the bridge cap is > not > > >cracked.>" > > > > > >Terry Farrell > > >Piano Tuning & Service > > >Tampa, Florida > > >mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com > > > > > >----- Original Message ----- > > >From: "Don" <drose@dlcwest.com> > > >To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > > >Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 11:51 AM > > >Subject: Re: Bridge gain delamination > > > > > > > > >> Hi Terry, > > >> > > >> Some grands don't have bridge caps. Therefore the vertical laminations > are > > >> quite accesseable. > > >> > > >> At 11:21 AM 8/1/00 -0400, you wrote: > > >> >Roger: O Yee of Great Wisdom. I read these posts with great interest, > > >always > > >> >trying to learn about a situation before I run into it. In the post > > >below, > > >> >if the vertical laminations on the bridge have delaminated (I assume > we > > >are > > >> >talking the main portion of the bridge below the bridge cap) and the > > >bridge > > >> >cap is not cracked, how do you get epoxy into and spread around in the > > >> >vertically delaminated areas - isn't the bridge cap covering all this, > > >> >rendering the delaminated area inaccessable??????? > > >> > > > >> >Terry Farrell > > >> >Piano Tuning & Service > > >> >Tampa, Florida > > >> >mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com > > >> > > > >> >----- Original Message ----- > > >> >From: "Roger Jolly" <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca> > > >> >To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > > >> >Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 10:35 PM > > >> >Subject: Re: Bridge gain delamination > > >> > > > >> > > > >> >> Hi Patrick, > > >> >> I am assuming that the splits are only in the > vertical > > >> >> laminations. > > >> >> I have successfully repaired a number of Baldwin vertically > laminated > > >> >> bridges with separations. > > >> >> > > >> >> You need a few cabinet makers wooden handscrews. ( the wooden clamps > > >with > > >> >> two handscrews) The points of the jaws will allow you to slip down > > >> >between > > >> >> the side of the bridge and the plate. Or you can modify them on a > band > > >> >saw > > >> >> so that you can get a good grip on the sides of the bridges.. > > >> >> > > >> >> Remove enough strings to give you room to work. Dry clamp the > > >offending > > >> >> area and see if you can draw the split together, usually no problem. > > >> >> > > >> >> Remove the bridge pins that have hair line cracks. > > >> >> > > >> >> I use West System thin epoxy. Swab the pin holes, and the split. > > >Install > > >> >> new bridge pins. > > >> >> Tighten clamps. Clean excess with acetone. Leave for 24hrs to > cure. > > >> >> > > >> >> If you have not used wooden handscrews. You need to practice a > little > > >> >> before you start. They have a good deal of clamping power once you > get > > >> >> used to them, and are less prone to marking or denting your work. > > >> >> > > >> >> Replacing the bridge pins is a personal fetish for this type of > repair. > > >> >But > > >> >> the pin will act like a pump and fill your small cracks from the > > >bottom. > > >> >> > > >> >> I presume the bridge cap is not cracked. > > >> >> > > >> >> Hope this is of help. > > >> >> > > >> >> Roger > > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> At 11:57 AM 31/07/00 -0400, you wrote: > > >> >> >Dear List: > > >> >> >I just returned from a piano evaluation, for a customer looking to > buy > > >a > > >> >> (32 year > > >> >> >old) small model 350 Kawai grand, walnut veneer, for $4500. > Everything > > >> >> looked AOK > > >> >> >EXCEPT: > > >> >> >the bridge gain (cf. Mason, he also calls it the bridge core; I'd > call > > >it > > >> >the > > >> >> >bridge body) is separating along the diagonal joint 3-4 notes above > > >the > > >> >> >tenor/treble break. There's minor cracking of the bridge surface at > > >the > > >> >> bridge > > >> >> >pins, but there's clearly been some glue joint failure at the joint > in > > >> >the > > >> >> body of > > >> >> >the bridge (the sides of the bridge are no longer flush, the joint > > >line > > >> >is > > >> >> too > > >> >> >prominent). No tonal deficiencies because of it (yet). > > >> >> >I'm (optimistically) thinking I could fix this in the home by > running > > >> >> screws with > > >> >> >washers through the separated parts, soak epoxy into the slight but > > >real > > >> >> >separation, etc. I'm hoping that with 2-3 sessions the bridge > should > > >be > > >> >AOK. > > >> >> >Have any of you had success with this kind of repair on other Asian > > >> >pianos > > >> >> (I've > > >> >> >seen this as a problem area on all of their long bridges)? > > >> >> >Or should I tell my customer to back out of the deal? > > >> >> >Comments, Jim Jon Ron Roger et al? > > >> >> > > > >> >> Roger Jolly > > >> >> Saskatoon, Canada. > > >> >> 306-665-0213 > > >> >> Fax 652-0505 > > >> >> > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> Regards, > > >> Don Rose, B.Mus., A.M.U.S., A.MUS., R.M.T., R.P.T. > > >> Tuner for the Saskatchewan Centre of the Arts > > >> drose@dlcwest.com > > >> http://donrose.htmlplanet.com/ > > >> > > >> 3004 Grant Rd. > > >> REGINA, SK > > >> S4S 5G7 > > >> 306-352-3620 or 1-888-29t-uner > > >> > > >> > > > > > Roger Jolly > > Saskatoon, Canada. > > 306-665-0213 > > Fax 652-0505 > > > > >
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