Bridge gain delamination

Roger Jolly baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca
Wed, 02 Aug 2000 09:43:28 -0600


Heck Terry,
                 Cut me some slack, I'm not going deaf, just need a
remedial reading programme.     <g>
Now where is horizontal?  and where is vertical????????????

I can see you l laughing with my bionic eye.

Roger


At 05:32 AM 02/08/00 -0400, you wrote:
>">If there is a cap and it is not split, how would you see the seperation?<"
>
>I can't pass on this one: Gee Roger, if you can determine that a hammer
>flange pinning is at 4 grams rather than the preferred 6 grams just by
>listening to the not being struck, then can't you tell that a bridge is
>delaminated just by listening?????????????? ;-)  I think that would sound
>perhaps like a freight train to those of you with the bionic ears!
>
>Terry Farrell
>Piano Tuning & Service
>Tampa, Florida
>mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Roger Jolly" <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca>
>To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
>Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 12:32 AM
>Subject: Re: Bridge gain delamination
>
>
>> Hi Terry,
>>              that's what I was thinking, with a fairly thin bridge cap
>that
>> exposes the laminations at the notch.
>>  If it is an exposed vertical lamination like Baldwin then the fix I
>> suggested works well. If there is a cap and it is not split, how would you
>> see the seperation?
>>
>> Mystified Roger
>>
>>
>> At 10:54 PM 01/08/00 -0400, you wrote:
>> >Yes, but in this case Roger was making the assumption that there was a
>> >bridge cap.....like in a Steinway......... "<I presume the bridge cap is
>not
>> >cracked.>"
>> >
>> >Terry Farrell
>> >Piano Tuning & Service
>> >Tampa, Florida
>> >mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com
>> >
>> >----- Original Message -----
>> >From: "Don" <drose@dlcwest.com>
>> >To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
>> >Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 11:51 AM
>> >Subject: Re: Bridge gain delamination
>> >
>> >
>> >> Hi Terry,
>> >>
>> >> Some grands don't have bridge caps. Therefore the vertical laminations
>are
>> >> quite accesseable.
>> >>
>> >> At 11:21 AM 8/1/00 -0400, you wrote:
>> >> >Roger: O Yee of Great Wisdom. I read these posts with great interest,
>> >always
>> >> >trying to learn about a situation before I run into it. In the post
>> >below,
>> >> >if the vertical laminations on the bridge have delaminated (I assume
>we
>> >are
>> >> >talking the main portion of the bridge below the bridge cap) and the
>> >bridge
>> >> >cap is not cracked, how do you get epoxy into and spread around in the
>> >> >vertically delaminated areas - isn't the bridge cap covering all this,
>> >> >rendering the delaminated area inaccessable???????
>> >> >
>> >> >Terry Farrell
>> >> >Piano Tuning & Service
>> >> >Tampa, Florida
>> >> >mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com
>> >> >
>> >> >----- Original Message -----
>> >> >From: "Roger Jolly" <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca>
>> >> >To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
>> >> >Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 10:35 PM
>> >> >Subject: Re: Bridge gain delamination
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >> Hi Patrick,
>> >> >>                 I am assuming that the splits are only in the
>vertical
>> >> >> laminations.
>> >> >> I have successfully repaired a number of Baldwin vertically
>laminated
>> >> >> bridges with separations.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> You need a few cabinet makers wooden handscrews. ( the wooden clamps
>> >with
>> >> >> two handscrews)  The points of the jaws will allow you to slip down
>> >> >between
>> >> >> the side of the bridge and the plate.  Or you can modify them on a
>band
>> >> >saw
>> >> >> so that you can get a good grip on the sides of the bridges..
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Remove enough strings to give you room to work.  Dry clamp the
>> >offending
>> >> >> area and see if you can draw the split together, usually no problem.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Remove the bridge pins that have hair line cracks.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I use West System thin epoxy. Swab the pin holes, and the split.
>> >Install
>> >> >> new bridge pins.
>> >> >> Tighten clamps.  Clean excess with acetone.  Leave for 24hrs to
>cure.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> If you have not used wooden handscrews. You need to practice a
>little
>> >> >> before you start.  They have a good deal of clamping power once you
>get
>> >> >> used to them, and are less prone to marking or denting your work.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Replacing the bridge pins is a personal fetish for this type of
>repair.
>> >> >But
>> >> >> the pin will act like a pump and fill your small cracks from the
>> >bottom.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I presume the bridge cap is not cracked.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Hope this is of help.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Roger
>> >> >>
>> >> >>
>> >> >>
>> >> >>
>> >> >>
>> >> >>
>> >> >> At 11:57 AM 31/07/00 -0400, you wrote:
>> >> >> >Dear List:
>> >> >> >I just returned from a piano evaluation, for a customer looking to
>buy
>> >a
>> >> >> (32 year
>> >> >> >old) small model 350 Kawai grand, walnut veneer, for $4500.
>Everything
>> >> >> looked AOK
>> >> >> >EXCEPT:
>> >> >> >the bridge gain (cf. Mason, he also calls it the bridge core; I'd
>call
>> >it
>> >> >the
>> >> >> >bridge body) is separating along the diagonal joint 3-4 notes above
>> >the
>> >> >> >tenor/treble break. There's minor cracking of the bridge surface at
>> >the
>> >> >> bridge
>> >> >> >pins, but there's clearly been some glue joint failure at the joint
>in
>> >> >the
>> >> >> body of
>> >> >> >the bridge (the sides of the bridge are no longer flush, the joint
>> >line
>> >> >is
>> >> >> too
>> >> >> >prominent). No tonal deficiencies because of it (yet).
>> >> >> >I'm (optimistically) thinking I could fix this in the home by
>running
>> >> >> screws with
>> >> >> >washers through the separated parts, soak epoxy into the slight but
>> >real
>> >> >> >separation, etc. I'm hoping that with 2-3 sessions the bridge
>should
>> >be
>> >> >AOK.
>> >> >> >Have any of you had success with this kind of repair on other Asian
>> >> >pianos
>> >> >> (I've
>> >> >> >seen this as a problem area on all of their long bridges)?
>> >> >> >Or should I tell my customer to back out of the deal?
>> >> >> >Comments, Jim Jon Ron Roger et al?
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> Roger Jolly
>> >> >> Saskatoon, Canada.
>> >> >> 306-665-0213
>> >> >> Fax 652-0505
>> >> >>
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> Regards,
>> >> Don Rose, B.Mus., A.M.U.S., A.MUS., R.M.T., R.P.T.
>> >> Tuner for the Saskatchewan Centre of the Arts
>> >> drose@dlcwest.com
>> >> http://donrose.htmlplanet.com/
>> >>
>> >> 3004 Grant Rd.
>> >> REGINA, SK
>> >> S4S 5G7
>> >> 306-352-3620 or 1-888-29t-uner
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> Roger Jolly
>> Saskatoon, Canada.
>> 306-665-0213
>> Fax 652-0505
>>
> 
Roger Jolly
Saskatoon, Canada.
306-665-0213
Fax 652-0505


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