stringing

[Richard Anderson]

I highly recommend a 3/8 drive pneumatic impact wrench with a 3/8 drive
tuning pin socket. The biggest advantage over an electric drill is you won't
feel the torque because of the impact action. Your wrists won't hurt nearly
as much afterwards. The wrench doesn't heat up like an electric drill and my
wrench weighs less than my 1/2 elec. drill. It will take out tighter pins
easily, even fresh pins in a new block (I always torque test each new block
now, there seems to be more variation in block densities now days), It
doesn't turn as fast so it's easier to control. and because of the lack of
felt torque it's easier to keep the pin straight as you back it out. Another
nice benefit of a pneumatic tool is you can spin the socket by hand to line
it up for the pin you're slipping the tool down on. You don't have to rotate
the tool to fit the socket on the next pin. Also much easier on the wrists.

I also use it for removing and installing plate and block screws and those
large screws for leg plates and turn buttons.

A point of caution. Because you cannot buy a tuning pin impact socket the
drive recess of the socket will egg out and eventually split. This will make
the socket loose enough to slip off the wrench. I solved this by installing
a shaft collar (looks like heavy duty stop collar) on the drive end of the
socket. It has prevented the socket from splitting but it still gets loose.
I keep one hand on the wrench and the other on the socket and use that hand
to spin the socket to slip down on the next pin. It goes very quickly once
you get the hang of it.

Another point of caution. It will make enough torque to strip or break
fasteners and you won't feel it until it's too late. Make sure the wrench
has a graduated torque adjustment. My wrench is marked 1 to 6; 3-1/2 is max
for plate screws, and 4-1/2 is max for rim bolts/screws. Install a screw by
hand to the proper torque and adjust the wrench so that it won't turn it any
farther. Or put them most of the way in with the wrench and finish by hand.
You can develop a feel for the torque by watching the speed of the
bit/socket. It will slow down when it gets tight.

BTW, here's something I wished I'd started to do years ago; after I make a
new block, but BEFORE I refinish the plate and screws, I slide the block
under the plate (out of the piano) and install all the screws to "cut" the
threads in the block. The screws will go in much easier, more controllably,
and with less potential for damaging the finish of the plate or screws at
final installation in the piano (also a good time to check for protruding
screws). I also try to use a substitute dummy or slave screw to cut the
threads the first time to avoid stressing or boogering the original screw. I
break a lot less screws this way and the slots stay better for the final
drive (again reducing the potential for plate damage on final installation).
I even made some "plate taps" for common screw sizes by welding a nut to the
heads of used screws of common sizes. Another tip, slip some cloth front
rail punches up inside the sockets you use for rim bolts. It will hold the
rim of the socket off the plate and prevent damage to the head of the bolt.
-- 
Richard Anderson
Anderson Piano Service
Elgin, IL
mailto:tknostf@foxvalley.net
http://users.FoxValley.net/~tknostf/





> From: Leslie W Bartlett <lesbart1@juno.com>
> Reply-To: pianotech@ptg.org
> Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2000 07:28:52 -0500
> To: pianotech@ptg.org
> Subject: stringing
> 
> I'd appreciate some discussion of removal of tuning pins prior to
> restringing.