Piano Tilter Design Features

[Richard Moody]

----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Nossaman <RNossaman@KSCABLE.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2000 5:45 PM
Subject: Re: Piano Tilter Design Features


> >>.  One of the items I could really use
> >> is a decent shop tilter
> >> Tom Robinson
> >
> >I made mine out of wood.  The actual "tilter" portion is ply wood cut to
a
> >24 inch radius
>
> So why does it have to be a radius? Why not use an ellipse and put the
> balance point where you want it? It doesn't have to be perfect, you can
> freehand a decent enough curve to work just fine. > Ron N

Actually you don't need a radius or an elipse or any part of a conic section
even. You can just have a leg and tilt it back until it hits the leg and it
will tilt up on that.  However the leg tends to break off so a plywood brace
helps. Now if this brace is circular it makes the tilting even more easier.
It is easier to draw a circle than anything else, and get two of them exact.
It they are not exact weird things happen.  You could have a 24 inch circle
come to a 28 inch leg.  In fact that gives a bonus of having the piano simi
tilted which is nice if you have the action and keys still in but the fall
board out. I tried the other curves.    When I got to the circle I finally
found the curve I liked best.  I wish I had started with that first.
. ---ric