"Premier" grand sustain problem

[paulmcrpt@juno.com]

On Thu, 28 Oct 1999 07:37:31 -0400 Clyde Hollinger <cedel@supernet.com>
writes:
>Friends,
>  Or, has anyone tried retrofitting,
>putting a small hinge in the piece so the wood doesn't need to flex 
>at
>all?  
>Regards,
>Clyde Hollinger
>
Clyde,

I would suggest you forget about the old design completely.  Create a
lever out of old pin block material or aluminum bar stock 3/4" to 1'
square.  This lever will have one end above the pedal rod and the other
some distance to the rear of the piano where it will be fitted with a
pivot pin. The brackets for this pivot can be purchased from Baldwin for
1.95/pair or you can use two small blocks of wood and drill and bush to
your need.  The pitman to lift the damper tray can usually do its job
from anywhere along the tray.  The closer your damper lift distance is to
your pedal throw distance, the farther back your pivot point will have to
go, but a little experimentation with a couple of rulers will figure the
best setting out for you.  In other words, if the damper tray moves half
as far as the pedal goes up and down, the pitman can be halfway between
the pedal rod and the pivot.  For a pivot pin you might try a nice shinny
balance rail pin and CA glue it into your lever.  Dress the parts  with
leather and/or felt as appropriate.  Use a coiled (as in most Orientals)
or a flat spring to give the pedal the right feel and help the dampers
fall quickly.  Don't worry, you are not destroying any "antique value" by
changing a design.  Manufactures do make mistakes, and this one is an
example.  Finally, charge for your creativity, as well as your time. 
Redesigning trapwork is something I have had to do on several occasions
and it always takes more time than it might appear it should, but just
try to play that piano without it.

Paul McMillin, RPT
Carlisle, PA