At 09:15 AM 10/21/99 -0600, you wrote: > >pianotech-digest Thursday, October 21 1999 Volume 1997 : Number 2076 > > > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 17:45:42 -0400 >From: Greg Newell <gnewell@netzero.net> >Subject: Re: Plastic (old) elbow dilemma > >Susan, > I've always adjusted lost motion at the top of the wire not the bottom, but >no it's not welded or anything. I can't think that the durability of the >plastic is compromised at all. Plastics are heated and cooled for reshaping all >the time. I give a lifetime guarantee on the repair. Mine or theirs , whichever >comes first. I've not noticed toxic fumes except those couple times when I was >preoccupied and got the wire cherry red. By that time if I touched the plastic >I've pretty much wasted the elbow anyway. Give it a shot! > >Greg Newell > >Susan Kline wrote: > >> At 11:49 PM 10/19/1999 -0400, you wrote: >> >Clyde, >> > You've simply got to try this. Heat the wire with your propane torch >> and simply >> >push the new elbow on. It's really that simple. I'm guessing it's kinda >> like they >> >put the screw driver blade into its' handle. Anyway it will shorten your >> time on >> >this job dramatically!!! >> > Greg Newell >> >> Can you still adjust the lost motion after they are in, or are they fixed >> in place? >> And how does the heat affect the durability of the plastic? And do you have >> to >> smell the hot plastic as you do it? >> >> Susan > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 16:48:10 EDT >From: Pianotoone@AOL.COM >Subject: Re: Plastic (old) elbow dilemma > >I can attach a plastic elbow in about twenty seconds including, heating a >cooling. No way can you rotate one on in that time. Plus the heating system >is much easier > >Just my 4 cents (inflation you know) worth > >Dick Day >Marshall, MI > >In a message dated 10/20/99 2:46:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, >jpage@capecod.net writes: > ><< Heat the wire with a propane torch until you see it turn color just a > little - > certainly not red! Push it in the elbow and hold it straight until the wire > cools enough to be solid (10 seconds or so). Try it you'll like it. I cut > the > old elbows off with a pair of wire cutters, cutting it lengthwise. By now > most > elbows are so brittle that they fall off easily. > > > >dave > > It seems to me; for the time it takes to heat the wire, > insert it and wait till it cools; you could just rotate one on. > > Vise-Grips on the wire makes quick work of it, no fumes, > no fire hazard, no fuel cost. > > Besides, if you have a willing helper; while they replace the > elbows, you could be tightening action screws. > >> > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 08:23:36 -0700 >From: rchayden1@juno.com >Subject: Re: Plastic elbow dilemma SOLVED! > >Plastic Elbows? And not enough cash? > >Sell them a few extra elbows, teach them how to repair them, tune it and >of course charge accordingly. At least you're leaving them a recourse. > >I've taught many to do this, departed with very grateful clients, and >left no monkey on my back. Return visits proved that they seldom >regulated them correctly, but at least they had 'function' and the kids >could keep practicing. > >Return visits also proved that not many more broke. > >And, how about the set of original elbows, half of which are still strong >and will not come off without endangering the wooden whippen walls. > >Roger Hayden, RPT > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 18:00:34 -0400 >From: Greg Newell <gnewell@netzero.net> >Subject: Re: Plastic (old) elbow dilemma > >Dick, > No offense, but I can't imagine what takes you so long. I'm figuring about 5 >second each. > >Greg Newell > >Pianotoone@AOL.COM wrote: > >> I can attach a plastic elbow in about twenty seconds including, heating a >> cooling. No way can you rotate one on in that time. Plus the heating system >> is much easier >> >> Just my 4 cents (inflation you know) worth >> >> Dick Day >> Marshall, MI >> >> In a message dated 10/20/99 2:46:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, >> jpage@capecod.net writes: >> >> << Heat the wire with a propane torch until you see it turn color just a >> little - >> certainly not red! Push it in the elbow and hold it straight until the wire >> cools enough to be solid (10 seconds or so). Try it you'll like it. I cut >> the >> old elbows off with a pair of wire cutters, cutting it lengthwise. By now >> most >> elbows are so brittle that they fall off easily. >> > >> >dave >> >> It seems to me; for the time it takes to heat the wire, >> insert it and wait till it cools; you could just rotate one on. >> >> Vise-Grips on the wire makes quick work of it, no fumes, >> no fire hazard, no fuel cost. >> >> Besides, if you have a willing helper; while they replace the >> elbows, you could be tightening action screws. >> >> > >------------------------------ > >Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 19:02:23 -0400 >From: Ken Jankura <kenrpt@mail.cvn.net> >Subject: Re: Plastic (old) elbow dilemma > >I made a jig out of wood scraps and CA glue one morning in 5 minutes that >lasted half an elbow job. The addition of a little more CA glue helped it >last the other half of that job and a few others after. It chucks in a >variable speed drill and speeds up the screw-on process. Pianotek sells a >very compact nifty tool of this order for under $10. I bought one. >Ken Jankura > > >At 02:40 PM 10/20/99 -0400, you wrote: >>At 11:17 AM 10/20/1999 -0500, you wrote: >>>Clyde: >>> >>>Heat the wire with a propane torch until you see it turn color just a >>little - >>certainly not red! Push it in the elbow and hold it straight until the wire >>cools enough to be solid (10 seconds or so). Try it you'll like it. I cut >>the >>old elbows off with a pair of wire cutters, cutting it lengthwise. By now >>most >>elbows are so brittle that they fall off easily. >>> >>>dave >> >>It seems to me; for the time it takes to heat the wire, >>insert it and wait till it cools; you could just rotate one on. >> >>Vise-Grips on the wire makes quick work of it, no fumes, >>no fire hazard, no fuel cost. >> >>Besides, if you have a willing helper; while they replace the >>elbows, you could be tightening action screws. >> >>Menial tasks should be delegated to speed up the job. >> >>Now, if I could just get one of my kids to mow the lawn . . . >>Jon Page, Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass. mailto:jpage@capecod.net >>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >> >> >> > > > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 17:14:14 -0500 >From: Avery Todd <avery@ev1.net> >Subject: Jig & Yamaha Scale Help > >List, > > Would anyone happen to know the PT Journal >issue where Bill Spurlock describes how to >build his Grand Damper Lever Setting Jig? I'm >just trying to save some time wading through >past issues. > Also, would anyone happen to have the plain >wire scale for the Yamaha G3E Series grands, >#1413173 (1971 according to Pierce). > Some "thoughtful" students have removed all >portions of several broken strings on these >and I hate having to let down tension to measure >one next to it. On these models, the number is >not on the plate. I'm assuming it would be >metric. > It would save me a lot of time, so thanks for >any help anyone can give me. >______________________________________ >mailto:atodd@uh.edu - Work > >mailto:avery@ev1.net - Home > >Avery Todd, RPT >Moores School of Music >University of Houston >713-743-3226 >Houston, TX 77204-4201 > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 19:19:23 EDT >From: JIMRPT@AOL.COM >Subject: Re: Jig & Yamaha Scale Help > >Avery the scale for that vintage Yamahas is on the bridge............. >Jim Bryant (FL) > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 20:20:03 -0600 >From: "Robert Moffatt" <moffattr@cadvision.com> >Subject: Re: Jig & Yamaha Scale Help > >Avery, > >The scale for all Yamaha grands can be found on the bridge. > >Bob >- ----- Original Message ----- >From: Avery Todd <avery@ev1.net> >To: <pianotech@ptg.org> >Cc: <caut@ptg.org> >Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 1999 4:14 PM >Subject: Jig & Yamaha Scale Help > > >> List, >> >> Would anyone happen to know the PT Journal >> issue where Bill Spurlock describes how to >> build his Grand Damper Lever Setting Jig? I'm >> just trying to save some time wading through >> past issues. >> Also, would anyone happen to have the plain >> wire scale for the Yamaha G3E Series grands, >> #1413173 (1971 according to Pierce). >> Some "thoughtful" students have removed all >> portions of several broken strings on these >> and I hate having to let down tension to measure >> one next to it. On these models, the number is >> not on the plate. I'm assuming it would be >> metric. >> It would save me a lot of time, so thanks for >> any help anyone can give me. >> ______________________________________ >> mailto:atodd@uh.edu - Work >> >> mailto:avery@ev1.net - Home >> >> Avery Todd, RPT >> Moores School of Music >> University of Houston >> 713-743-3226 >> Houston, TX 77204-4201 >> >> > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 22:42:32 -0600 >From: "Joe & Penny Goss" <imatunr@primenet.com> >Subject: Weber Gooey mess #3800 > >Hi all, >Working on an old Weber the other day that had sluggish jacks. >At first it seemed to be the only problem, but on closer examination I found >that someone had covered the wippin cushions with a very thick coating of >graphite. >The coating was so thick with some type of grease that the capstans had a >coat of the stuff on them as well. >This resulted in the capstan clinging to the wippin cushion making the >action very sluggish. >Is there anyone that might know what the carrier for the graphite might have >been? >And also what one might use to wash out the goo from the felt? >Joe Goss > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 20:12:36 PDT >From: "Ron Koval" <drwoodwind@hotmail.com> >Subject: cheap-n-easy voltage control > >My search took me to the local "ma & pa" hardware store. (Ma threw pa out a >couple of years ago, but that's another tale) As I was searching the used >tool shelf, (no kidding, I find all sorts of stuff that I have no clue what >it was made for!) I lifted my eyes to the wall display and saw the key piece >to complete my quest: A lamp socket dimmer. This wonderful little gizmo >screws into any lamp and with a twist of the dial on the side, makes any >lamp into a dimmer lamp. > >So, you ask, how will this help with my hammer-flaming soldering iron, or my >felt-cloud-creating dremmel tool? > >Just down the aisle I found two adapters to complete the quest. Male socket >to female plug, and female socket to male plug. (stop it, I'm blushing) >Screw them all together, and Frankenstien is created! Inserted between >extension cord and tool, one light-weight, cheap, easy to create in-line >voltage controller. > >So, no more blackened hammers for dinner, and I can finally slow down that >wild dremmel tool. > >'g'night all > >Ron Koval > > >______________________________________________________ >Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 22:27:32 EDT >From: JIMRPT@aol.com >Subject: Back up!-- not really off topic > >et al; > I had a call today from a prospective client about a quote that I made back >in 1996! >Since the call was on my answering machine and his business hours were over >for the day by the time I got the call I can't call back until tomorrow. > Wanting to be as knowledgable about the quote as I could be, I looked in my >old fashioned :-) paper files and found......... nada. >Thinking "what the heck" I pulled down my old back up ZIP Drive disks and >started doing a universal search to see if by some miracle I had saved the >quote..........Zowee!! I found it on the third disk I searched. > Now, because I took the advice from someone several years ago to "back up >everything having to do with your business DUMMY", I can talk to my customer >from a basis of fact and figures rather than trying to remember what I said >back then. > Want to be able to do the same? ""back up everything having to do with your >business ................"" :-) and I might add..... keep it! >Jim Bryant (FL) > >------------------------------ > >Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 11:14:37 -0700 (MST) >From: "Jim Coleman, Sr." <pianotoo@imap2.asu.edu> >Subject: Laptops and Printers > >Greetings to all: > >I was very tempted to start using a laptop and HP340 to print invoices on >the job. I finally decided to not do it. I print the invoices in my office >for the day's schedule. It's much easier this way and it looks just as >professional to just to hand a nice neat invoice to the client at the >completion of the job. If there has been any added work done, that is >added by pencil and totalled. It is also noted on my work sheet which I >take back to the office at the end of the day and add to the computer. I >use the PTMS (Piano Technician Management System) which I used to sell. >I can take a sheet with all of my standard prices for services listed. >If I need to do an estimate, it is rather simple to mark those items >needed and total them for the client. > >I've noticed that when I do carry a laptop on the job, I have added >more weight to my kit. This shows up in ankle joints, knee joints, wrists, >and back. I like to carry into the job just the bare necessities for tuning >and minor regulation. All of this fits into a neat 3.5" thick attache case. >If more equipment is needed, I go to the car for an additional kit. > >Jim Coleman, Sr. > >------------------------------ > >Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 22:49:14 -0700 (MST) >From: "Jim Coleman, Sr." <pianotoo@imap2.asu.edu> >Subject: Re: tuning lecture > >Hi Dave: > >An oboe when playing with other instruments can tune to the others in >the ensemble, so that the M3ds are in tune. The piano is fixed to whatever >temperament you use, and it cannot bend the tones to fit with the other >instruments. Playing in just intonation is the goal in instrumental groups. >This is not possible with pianos. They are fixed a certain way by the >tuner. > >Jim Coleman, Sr. > >On Mon, 18 Oct 1999 DGPEAKE@AOL.COM wrote: > >> In a message dated 10/18/99 10:22:47 AM Pacific Daylight Time, >> drwoodwind@hotmail.com writes: >> >> << >> A piano is a fixed-pitch instrument. Temperaments help it sound as good as >> it can, for different keys. >> >> >> >> How can a piano be fixed-pitched? Like an oboe? >> >> Dave Peake, RPT >> Portland Chapter >> Oregon City, OR >> > >------------------------------ > >Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 08:25:52 -0400 >From: Wallace Wilson <wilson53@MARSHALL.EDU> >Subject: Re: Laptops & printers > >Paul: > Yours is a thoughtful and creative answer re laptops. I had been >considering getting a Palm Pilot for names, addresses, ph # & svc record >info. However, the laptop can do so much more, even if I continue to >tune aurally and use the SAT for those abysmal situations! How about >some feedback from those of you who've tried one way or the other -- the >ups & downs of each method? Much appreciation for those who will share >their experiences! > >Wally Wilson, RPT >West Virginia >Columbus, OH Chapter > >------------------------------ > >Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 10:27:54 -0400 >From: Wallace Wilson <wilson53@MARSHALL.EDU> >Subject: piano legs > >Our symphony desires to change its S&S D's dinky little casters for the >nice German casters that roll so much more easily. This requires a >change in piano legs so that the pianist won't be playing up under >his/her chin. There appears to be 2 ways to accomplish this: either >cut down the existing legs by 1/2 the difference in diameters between >the old & new casters; or buy/make new legs. The cost of 3 S&S "short >legs" is a bit high. Anybody out there make the various S&S legs, or >know of anybody who does? I might wind up doing it myself, but it is a >bit of time for one who doesn't do that sort of thing every week. Any >takers? or recommendations? > >- ---Wally Wilson, RPT > Ravenswood, WV > Columbus, OH Chapter > >------------------------------ > >Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 16:31:56 -0400 >From: Wallace Wilson <wilson53@MARSHALL.EDU> >Subject: Re: Laptops & printers > >Paul: > Yours is a thoughtful and creative answer re laptops. I had been >considering getting a Palm Pilot for names, addresses, ph # & svc record >info. However, the laptop can do so much more, even if I continue to >tune aurally and use the SAT for those abysmal situations! How about >some feedback from those of you who've tried one way or the other -- the >ups & downs of each method? Much appreciation for those who will share >their experiences! > >Wally Wilson, RPT >West Virginia >Columbus, OH Chapter > >paulmcrpt@juno.com wrote: >> >> On Sun, 17 Oct 1999 08:36:11 -0500 "David M. Porritt" >> <dporritt@swbell.net> writes: >> >List: >> > >> does anyone else carry a >> >printer with them? I have a Canon BJC-50 >> >> yes. I carry a HP Deskjet 340 and do the same as you mentioned. I love >> it and the customers enjoy the show. It starts conversations that lead >> to other services that I can offer such as a list of local teachers, >> prices of new pianos, when was the last time you had such-and-so done on >> your piano, rescaling, and analysis of inharmonicity or what is an ETD. >> I don't know how we ever worked with paper :-) >> >> Paul McMillin, RPT >> Carlisle, PA > >------------------------------ > >Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 04:28:14 -0500 >From: Avery Todd <avery@ev1.net> >Subject: Re: Jig & Yamaha Scale Help > >Hi Jim, > > I _did_ look there and on the plate. If they are, they're so faint that >I just didn't see them. Guess I'll try a brush and see if they're under >the dust. :-) > >Avery > >At 07:19 PM 10/20/99 -0400, you wrote: >>Avery the scale for that vintage Yamahas is on the bridge............. >>Jim Bryant (FL) > >------------------------------ > >Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 06:43:17 EDT >From: ANRPiano@aol.com >Subject: Re: Plastic elbow dilemma SOLVED! > >In a message dated 10/20/99 5:32:34 PM Central Daylight Time, >rchayden1@juno.com writes: > ><< And, how about the set of original elbows, half of which are still strong > and will not come off without endangering the wooden whippen walls. > > Roger Hayden, RPT > >> >Leave them alone. Who wants to pull one of these actions just to fix a >broken wip flange which you yourself broke? > >Leave sufficient elbows with the customer and educate them as you said. > >Andrew Remillard > >------------------------------ > >Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 19:39:05 -0700 >From: "Matthew J. Todd" <pianotech88@juno.com> >Subject: Broken Strings > >>* Matthew, >>It's having the problem because it's not a Steinway?! Ok then, if >strings >>don't break on Steinways, who's sneaking in and cutting these "broken" >>strings I sometimes replace on Steinway grands (yes, I am occasionally >>allowed to touch one)? > >If you replace 50+ strings in two years on one Steinway grand, let me >know. Obviously I would not be complaining if only several strings broke >a year. My piano instructor has occasionally broken strings on his >Steinway grands. > >Well, here is what I know about this piano. It is a 5'8.5'' Mason and >Hamlin grand. It was bought brand new in '79 for $7,192. Can the price >of those piano's boom from $7,000 to nearly $35-40,000 in twenty years? > >I do have a dehumidifier installed under the piano. I plan to get the >complete system here shortly. > >Our church piano tech came about three weeks ago. He reshaped the >hammers, and then he voiced them. What else could I do?? Will >regulating the action every so often help?? What are my other options??? > > >Thanks! > >Matthew > >------------------------------ > >Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 09:06:27 -0600 (MDT) >From: andy@antlers.Central.Sun.COM >Subject: test1 from anterls > >lskjdslkdjskl > >------------------------------ > >Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 09:08:56 -0600 (MDT) >From: "Andrew M. Rudoff" <andy@rudoff.com> >Subject: FAQ > >Long overdue for a FAQ posting... probably time for me to update it >a bit, but I'm posting it anyway for those who need a reminder how to >subscribe or unsubscribe. > >The searchable archives are off-line temporarily while I'm fixing a >problem. Should be back soon... > >- -andy > > MAILING LISTS PROVIDED BY THE PIANO TECHNICIANS GUILD > As of June 07, 1999 > > This file is available on the web at: > > http://www.ptg.org/faq/lists.html > >The following lists are provided by the PTG as a community >service. The PTG does not maintain any control over the >content of these lists. Each list is described briefly below, >along with subscription information. When posting, please >remember to choose the appropriate list for your topic. > >PIANOTECH -- a forum for piano technicians > > The "pianotech" list is intended for technical discussions > among piano technicians. Other topics of general interest > to piano technicians do come up, but the main focus is on > sharing technical information. It is an "open" list, allowing > anyone to subscribe and submit posts. > > To subscribe, send a message to majordomo@ptg.org > containing only this line: > > subscribe pianotech > > in the body of the message (the subject field is ignored). > If you wish to receive digests instead of individual posts, > send the line: > > subscribe pianotech-digest > > instead. Messages are posted by sending them to: > > pianotech@ptg.org > > To unsubscribe, send a message to majordomo@ptg.org > containing only this line: > > unsubscribe pianotech > > This list is archived on the web at: > > http://www.ptg.org/archive/pianotech.php/ > >PTG-L -- a list for PTG related discussions > > The "ptg-l" list is intended for discussions about the PTG > itself (policies, politics, announcements, etc.). It is for > PTG members only. > > YOU MUST BE A PTG MEMBER TO SUBSCRIBE! > > To subscribe, send a message to majordomo@ptg.org > containing only this line: > > subscribe ptg-l > > in the body of the message (the subject field is ignored). > If you wish to receive digests instead of individual posts, > send the line: > > subscribe ptg-l-digest > > instead. Messages are posted by sending them to: > > ptg-l@ptg.org > > To unsubscribe, send a message to majordomo@ptg.org > containing only this line: > > unsubscribe ptg-l > > This list is archived on the web at: > > http://www.ptg.org/archive/ptg-l/ > > You need your PTG member number and password to access the > archive. See your 1998 membership invoice for your password. > >CAUT -- a forum for College And University Technicians > > The "caut" list is intended for College And University > Technicians (abbreviated CAUT). It is an "open" list, > allowing anyone to subscribe and submit posts. > > To subscribe, send a message to majordomo@ptg.org > containing only this line: > > subscribe caut > > in the body of the message (the subject field is ignored). > If you wish to receive digests instead of individual posts, > send the line: > > subscribe caut-digest > > instead. Messages are posted by sending them to: > > caut@ptg.org > > To unsubscribe, send a message to majordomo@ptg.org > containing only this line: > > unsubscribe caut > > This list is archived on the web at: > > http://www.ptg.org/archive/caut.php/ > >HUMOR -- humor for piano technicians > > The "humor" list is an "open" list, allowing anyone to subscribe > and submit posts. It is intended for jokes, funny stories, etc. > > To subscribe, send a message to majordomo@ptg.org > containing only this line: > > subscribe humor > > in the body of the message (the subject field is ignored). > If you wish to receive digests instead of individual posts, > send the line: > > subscribe humor-digest > > instead. Send your posts to: > > humor@ptg.org > > To unsubscribe, send a message to majordomo@ptg.org > containing only this line: > > unsubscribe humor > > This list is archived on the web at: > > http://www.ptg.org/archive/humor/ > > > TESTING THE LISTS > >PLEASE DO NOT POST TEST MESSAGES TO THE LISTS! When you post a message >that says "just testing" you are cluttering up hundreds of mailboxes and >your message gets entered into the archives for that list. Instead, >send the line: > > which > >to the address: > > majordomo@ptg.org > >This line asks the server software to tell you which lists you are on. >The messages take the same path as a posted message, so you end up testing >that you can send mail to the server, and that it can send mail back to you. >In addition, you get to see what lists the server thinks you're on, so that >tells you if you have somehow been unsubscribed. Best of all, you don't >bother hundreds of people with a "testing" message. The "which" command is >handled automatically, so you can do this type of test as often as you like >(i.e. every month, every day, every hour, whatever). > > > FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT THE PTG MAILING LISTS > >1. What types of posts are allowed and disallowed on each list? > > Anyone can post anything. But each list does have its > intended purpose and everyone will be happiest if we all > try to stick to topics appropriate for each list. Sending > a PTG political discussion to pianotech or a completely > non-PTG related message to ptg-l are guaranteed ways to > get flamed. > > Please follow these guildlines when posting: > > - Sign your real name to your messages (adding your location > and place of employment is even better). > > - Don't post large attachments or messages -- offer to send it > to people or make it available on the web instead. > > - Don't "cross-post" your message to multiple mailing lists. > Choose the one forum best suited for your topic instead. > >2. Why aren't the lists moderated? > > The lists are meant to be open forums. Moderating these lists > would be a big job and it would be tricky to filter these lists > in a way that everyone agrees is fair. If enough interest arises, > we can create new, moderated lists in addition to the open lists > we have. > >3. How do I tell the list server to send me my own posts? > > This list software, majordomo, always sends you copies of your > own posts (it is not configurable). > >4. How do I tell the list server to send me digests? > > You must unsubscribe to the list and subscribe instead > to the "-digest" version of the list as explained earlier > in this document. For example, subscribing to "pianotech" > will cause you to receive every post individually. Subscribing > to "pianotech-digest" will cause you to receive collections > of posts periodically. > >5. I'm going out of town, how do I suspend delivery? > > You must unsubscribe and re-subscribe when you return. > >6. Is there a way to search the on-line archives? > > Not yet, but that is in the works. In the mean time, there is > an excellent searchable archive of the pianotech list maintained > by David Parkhurst at: > > http://www.webcom.com/wind/ptsearch.html > >7. Why don't the on-line archives contain old messages? > > We're currently only archiving those messages sent after the lists > moved to the PTG server. We're in the process of updating the > archives to contain old messages. > >8. Why did my message take so long to be sent out on the list? > > Several things could cause delays. The two most likely delays are: > > - some machine or network is temporarily down > - you message required approval by the list manager > > Messages require approval by the list manager if they contain > words like "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" at the top. This avoids > the very common annoyance of someone sending these requests to > the list instead of to majordomo@ptg.org. If the list manager > determines the message should really go out on the list, it is > approved. > > If you think your message has been dropped or delayed an unusual > amount of time, DON'T SEND MORE MAIL OUT TO THE LIST! This just > causes a wave of "is the list working?" messages. Be patient! > You can always send the word "help" to majordomo@ptg.org to see > if the server is responding, or contact admin@ptg.org for more > detailed status. > >9. Who do I contact for list administrative issues? > > admin@ptg.org > >- ------------------------------------- > >------------------------------ > >End of pianotech-digest V1997 #2076 >*********************************** > >
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