Hi Doug, Thanks for the input on the drywall compound. I'll pass along the info to my buddy. (We'll be trying something out somewhere.) :-) Yes I did receive the private e-mail. Thank you for the info. I received many helpful private e-mails and faxes from a number of people, and have since been gleaning more info from other techs in the area. It's been a real eye opener for me. (About pricing for rebuilding / bellywork for anybody who wonders what I'm talking about.) I keep getting overwhelmed with the same 4 words... Don't ... Be ... Too ... Cheap... I think the highest figure I received was about $18,000 for the belly and action, not including refinishing. Thanks again for your input. I hope you're feeling better too. Brian Trout Quarryville, PA btrout@desupernet.net > Hi Brian, > To apply the compound use a putty knife the appropriate size for surface > being filled. Spread a thin layer of compound with the putty knife. You're > not trying to turn the whole surface white, just filling the pores. Once > this dries, sand with 220 and stain. The compound takes on the exact color > of the stain. I've never tried adding the stain to the moist compound so > you'ld have to experimaent with that. > I've never done a whole piano this way. Just small sections, like when > replacing the veneer on the toes of an old upright, or a stripped table top. > Then I would apply shellac for a finish. > Basically, when I've done this, I'm trying to match an existing color that > is on the rest of the piano or furniture. So when I go to stain the dry wall > compound it takes on that color and so does the new or stripped wood. > By all means I'm not advocating this method over any other method, I'm just > describing what I was taught. It works, I go with it. > Brian, did you get that personal email about pricing I sent you recently? > Take care. > Doug Mahard > >
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