Adhesives

[John Ross]

Hi,
For the small replacement jobs, I have had very good luck with Duco Cement, by
Devcon. It does have a strong odour though.
For replacement of a complete set of plastic keytops, I use the type that includes
the fronts and use a cement that appears to be PVC-E, just on the surface of the
key.
I have had some on, in a boarding school system for over 10 years, still holding
strong.
Regards,
John M. Ross
Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada.

Tunethepno@AOL.COM wrote:

> In a message dated 10/11/99 6:48:57 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
> cedel@supernet.com writes:
>
> << I used
>  Weldwood Contact Cement, . . .  I spread it thinly with a
>  small (3/8") flat brush on both the keytop and the wood of the key and let
> it dry
>  at least ten minutes, then pressed them together.  There was a brush in the
>  bottle but I was unable to control the amount of glue when I tried to use it.
>  Again, the plus here is the instant bond and no clamping needed >>
>
> I've been using Weldwood for keytops and action related repairs for years and
> have been very happy with the results. For application on keytops, I use a
> small, cheap artist or craft brush (the kind that come 3-in-a-package at the
> grocery store) that I can just throw away. I think the width I use is a
> little narrower than 3/8" and I can usually have a pretty fair amount of
> control. When I get a little of that stringy leftover on the face of the
> keytop, I can just rub it off with my finger and it balls right up like
> rubber cement. If it is on there too long, I may have to use naptha to get it
> off and buff the keytop.
> For applications that I really want to be sure of, like sharps for instance,
> I use a technique I saw Norm Abrams use on New Yankee Workshop. Put the
> cement on both surfaces in a thin even coat, wait at least fifteen minutes
> and put on another thin coat. After a fifteen or twenty minute wait, press
> the parts together and they will be really secure. Because of the immediate
> adhesion, I sometimes fudge on the wait period by five or ten minutes and
> then let the parts barely touch while I line them up. They can usually be
> nudged one direction or the other slightly and then pressed to make the bond
> solid.
> I like Weldwood over Duro because I think it works a little better and I
> don't like the smell of Duro. IMHO
> John Stroup