Renner

[Newton Hunt]

> shim with veneer or such?  

You need to consider the location of the center pin, not the thickness
of the flange.  Use the part that provides the lowest touch weight, or
more specifically the greatest spread between up and down weight.

I would remove the lead closest to the front.  Measure the touch
weight.  Go for even balance weight.  To do this you cut a weight
down, bit by bit and replace the removed lead with the final portion
of the lead.

Lead removal is easiest on a drill press with a cross travel vise.  If
the left side of the key is blind use a spade bit 1/8" smaller than
the weight, to push the weight out from the blind side.  This tears
out the least amount of lead.  I have a block of wood with an hole
1/8" larger then the weights.  The hole is center under the spade
bit.  There is another hole drilled so the lead falls out the side of
the block instead into the vise.

Use an arbor press to flatten the small piece of lead and I use CA
glue to secure the piece in the hole.

If you make a tray with numbered compartments you can do your weigh
off then insert the leads as a set.

If you have more than four leads in the bass you still have a problem
of capstan location.

A better way to do this is to use the full Stanwood system, adjust the
weight of each hammer, adjust the front weight of each key to follow
the hammer weight charts David has defined.  You need to solve the
weights using a quadratic equation and a spread sheet since the weight
lines are not linear.  

David can supply further information.  The system does work.

Did you get the "turbo" wippen with the helper springs?

		Newton