The dip of the sharp is regulated by the backcheck (check-in). First one lays the touch on the naturals and then the height on the sharps. The backchecks are adjusted on the naturals and the sharp's backchecks are set in line with them. The dip on the sharps is determined by having the hammers check even with the natural's hammers. Nickel or not, for alignment and even-ness; that's my story and I'm stickin' to it. Or two cents, anyways; Jon Page ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ At 06:22 PM 3/8/99 -0600, you wrote: >The nickel gives you uniform looks then you can go with after touch to fine >tune it. > James Grebe >R.P.T. and M.P.T. > from St. Louis >pianoman@inlink.com > Creator of: > Handsome Hardwood Caster Cups > and >Practical Piano Benches > >-----Original Message----- >From: Newton Hunt <nhunt@jagat.com> >To: pianotech@ptg.org <pianotech@ptg.org> >Date: Sunday, March 07, 1999 10:45 AM >Subject: Re: Sharp leveling > > >>> >>> I have always used the thickness of a nickel above the natural when the >>> sharp is depressed. >>> >> >>OK, James, then you have to set the height of the sharp to match the >>after touch to it's white neighbors. Hmmm, hadn't thought of doing it >>that way. Must give it a try sometime. >> >> Newton >> >> >
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