Sharp leveling

[James Grebe]

I have always used the thickness of a nickel above the natural when the
sharp is depressed.
            James Grebe
R.P.T. and M.P.T.
 from St. Louis
pianoman@inlink.com
                  Creator of:
 Handsome Hardwood Caster Cups
                  and
Practical   Piano    Benches

-----Original Message-----
From: Newton Hunt <nhunt@jagat.com>
To: pianotech@ptg.org <pianotech@ptg.org>
Date: Friday, March 05, 1999 9:46 PM
Subject: Re: Sharp leveling


>Hi Jerry,
>
>Whatever the dip, usually 10mm, the sharps should be 2mm above the
>white key when fully depressed for the same aftertouch.  10mm plus 2mm
>is 12mm for leveling sharps above naturals.  One of those 'natural'
>things.
>
> Newton
>
>Jerry Hunt wrote:
>>
>> In leveling the sharps on my old upright/cadaver, most of them when
>> leveled at 1/2" above the white keys (which were leveled first), the key
>> sits noticably higher than the adjacent white keys at the balance rail.
>> Reblitz notes that the top of the wood part of the keys should be about
>> the same height for both sharps and whites.
>>
>> Obviously, on this piano, I can't do both. Granted, the sharps may be
>> worn slightly (I repainted them) but I wouldn't think they would be worn
>> that much. Which is preferable, sharps 1/2" above whites, or top of keys
>> (excluding keytops/sharp cover) level?
>>
>> Thanks, and I hope my scenario is clear.
>> --
>> Jerry Hunt
>> Dallas, TX
>
>