Sharp leveling

[Jerry Hunt]

Roger,
I'm happy with the white height/level. Good point about the key
recovering. Thanks to all for the tips.


Roger Jolly wrote:
> 
> Hi Jerry,
>          Most of the points re dip, and after touch have been covered by
> other post's. One thing to bear in mind,if the keys have been recovered
> at some time, and changed from ivory to plastic, the plastic is about
> 0.030" thicker.  If the keys have not been milled to compensate for the
> difference you will have this problem.
> Secondly, some manufacturers spec their sharps to be slightly higher
> than the naturals.
> As a rough rule of thumb key height on an old upright will be very
> close, if the front of the key that is above the keyslip forms a square.
> This was done by most manufacturers for cosmetic reasons.
> Hope this helps
> Roger
> 
> Jerry Hunt wrote:
> >
> > In leveling the sharps on my old upright/cadaver, most of them when
> > leveled at 1/2" above the white keys (which were leveled first), the key
> > sits noticably higher than the adjacent white keys at the balance rail.
> > Reblitz notes that the top of the wood part of the keys should be about
> > the same height for both sharps and whites.
> >
> > Obviously, on this piano, I can't do both. Granted, the sharps may be
> > worn slightly (I repainted them) but I wouldn't think they would be worn
> > that much. Which is preferable, sharps 1/2" above whites, or top of keys
> > (excluding keytops/sharp cover) level?
> >
> > Thanks, and I hope my scenario is clear.
> > --
> > Jerry Hunt
> > Dallas, TX

-- 
Jerry Hunt
Dallas, TX