Ron, If this is in reference to my previous posting which mentioned 'natural curve' I was referring to the curve in the wire once it is up to tension and curving at bearing points. 'Attending to this' is tapping wire at the rear duplex to sharpen the bend, also at the bridge pins, capo - both sides, and the counter bearing bar. The natural curve I think you are referring to is the result of being removed from the roll/coil. My approach to this curve is to measure the entire string length. By this I mean, while stringing I have a section of wire extending beyond the t-pin to allow for the coils and extending it to the hitch pin. The h/p location is held between two fingers and then held up & doubled back, the wire is then cut at the location where the starting point of the wire meets. With my fingers still holding the h/p location I make the bend on a nail which is set into a board and clamped onto the keybed. The bend is made with the wire curved upwards and the bend made at 90 degree to this causing the loop to curve upwards. To relieve the stress wanting the wire to jump off the h\p, I bend it slightly downwards; straightening it out somewhat. The wire is installed and this way both sides are cut the same lengths from their respective pins and the pins are coiled 90 degrees to the pin block. I get no twisting this way. This procedure is described in the Becket Tool information, this tool is simply a measuring gage to cut the wire uniformly (info and jpg sent on request - info contains details for making gage). Regards, Jon Page Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass. (jpage@capecod.net) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ At 09:53 AM 2/27/99 -0600, you wrote: >Hi Gang, It's me again, with another one of *these*. Let's have some fun and >see what we can learn. > >I've heard a considerable number of rather vague references to accommodating <snip> > Ron >
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