I have found wood rebuilder to be stronger than epoxy when changing out casters on grands where you have to fill & drill, and on other structural repairs such as repairing holes for piano legs or lyres where you have dowels that fit. I've had trouble with epoxies, and I do know hopw to use them properly. For bridge repair -- if you're talking about drizzling something in by the bridge pins -- I use an ultra thin epoxy than will run & spread *inside* the bridge. My favorite is "wood rot cure." I think it's from Leichtung. PAT A RALPH wrote: > Wood Rebuilder is more for filling non duress areas -- a music rack that has > a chunk missing as W R can be sanded, drilled and finished just like wood. > The liquid portion has part glue base of the typed that has been used for > "sniffing" and the powder another chemical (I threw my old stuff away today > and am waiting for my new shipment so I can't look at the box and name the > primary ingrediants. > > I would use epoxy like on a bridge repair or pin block. > > Ken Gerler > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Farrell <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> > To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 2:58 PM > Subject: Wood Rebuilder > > > Does anyone know what Wood Rebuilder is made of? The odor is that of > > fiberglas resin. Is it pretty much fiberglas resin and sawdust? Would not > an > > epoxy base be better/stronger? > >
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