rebuild with pinblock plugs

[Jon Page]

I forgot to mention that the "replaced" veneer face on top of the block
was damaged beyond salvage. Yes, I faced it with a walnut veneere,
because that is what I had enough of without getting into further expence 
since I was doing more than contracted for with the sound board & case.
So it wasn't Birdseye Maple, the plate wasn't refinished either.  This is a
piano in a summer cottage on  bluff looking over the Atlantic Ocean and 
Cape Cod Bay, used for accompianing a singer. Tuneablity was the
main goal.

So I really had no pattern to go from. I did however trace the pin holes
before
dreadging the block.  It was a rough estimate for a pattern stricken from
string
cuts in the wooden counter bearing bases and agraffes.

It took some time, and since it was my first attempt at this, I took extra
time.
Making money is for the bigger shops.

It came out fine and I have no second thoughts about the effectiveness of
epoxy.

Thanks for reminding me,

Jon Page

At 03:07 PM 4/24/99 -0400, you wrote:
>I have been concerned about replacing whole sections of the open pinblock 
>with new pinblock stock. Years ago there were some problems with the
sections 
>lifting out. I think that is because epoxy then was not very good for 
>woodworking. But I am still careful. This is why if I plug, the blocks 
>integrity must be first rate.  I feel that the extra gluing surface plugs 
>give me help in preventing this problem.  In addition, after I plug an open 
>face block I put on new veneer and locate the holes by taking a paper 
>pattern.  I realize that this option may not have been open to you.  If in 
>the future you need to remove one of those mortised open face blocks just 
>remember that the veneer on the of the case comes off with heat and
patience. 
>  

Jon Page
Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass. (jpage@capecod.net)
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