"Hammer Technique"; ddf Q

[Billbrpt@AOL.COM]

In a message dated 11/12/98 6:53:07 AM Central Standard Time,
kwburton@cadvision.com writes:

<< Tom,
 
     I have never used lubricant on the felt you mention. So, I can only say
 that others recommend Protec.
 
     Ken Burton "Doctor Piano" Calgary Alberta
  >>

I have been following this hammer technique thread.  One of the newer
technicians has asked me some questions about it.  As far as lubricants go, I
have heard many different recommendations over the years.  I seldom find it
necessary to use any but as always, there is a time and place for it:  you
come to a piano which is very out of tune and all rusty.  You surely don't
want to break any of those strings.  Or, as Tom mentioned, you see a spot
where something was spilled and you want to dissolve the rust in the area.

WD-40 raises flags in our business immediately and so does silicone yet both
have been recommended in the past.  From what I have heard though, WD-40 might
well be appropriate for this limited application.  Silicone?  Probably not.
As they all say, it creeps.

Having said that, since Protek has been available and recommended, I see no
reason to try anything else that might be harmful.

Concerning hammer technique itself, I learned to use an impact type technique
19 years ago from George Defebaugh and Jim Coleman.  George contended that it
was the most "mechanically correct" way to move the string which is a steel
wire that passes over other metal surfaces generally without lubrication.  The
difference between being in tune and out is an extremely fine adjustment
against these conditions.  Furthermore, you have to equalize the tension
across *all* of the bearing points before the pitch will be stable in the
speaking length.  The jarring motion of an impact technique seems to better
move the string accross all of these points than a slow pull can.

Still, there are very fine technicians who use the opposite or "slow pull"
approach successfully.  In their case, I believe that it is most important to
over pull first, then lower the pitch and use good, hard test blows to settle
the string.  I also but very seldom use the slow pull when the tuning pins are
loose and/or jumpy.  In these cases, I feel as though I am tuning the piano
the way I would a harpsichord.  I am using the tuning hammer more like a "key"
rather than a wrench.

Whichever technique seems to work for you, personally, will end up being the
best one.

Recently, I demonstrated to the newer technician that with the impact method,
I can easily and normally do reach the desired pitch within one to a few
strokes upon the lever.  Yes, it takes practice but it is not a lot different
from the skill it takes to learn to handle the steering wheel of a car or the
"mouse" of your computer.  This "one stroke" tuning allows me to rough tune a
piano in 15-20 minutes and fine tune in another 25-30 minutes, making a fine,
stable, up to pitch tuning only take about 45 minutes or often even less. 

 Speed and accuracy are essential to being able to tune 4-6 pianos a day,
earning a good living and being home for dinner at a reasonable hour or having
the time in the evening for other worthwhile pursuits.

Sincerely,

Bill Bremmer RPT
Madison, Wisconsin