Plastic parts

[Roger Jolly]

Hi Joe,
           That's the advantage of stripping the damper felt, pre cut the
felt at home, use 10" set of tweezers and slid down the strings, into
position, no bleedy dampers and a lot less hassle.
You also have the opportunity to improve the bass to tenor break by
installing tri- damper felt, normally I find that a little string spacing
is needed as well, but the job is straight forward, and you get paid. It
beats spending an hour or so fudging bleeding dampers, and cussing because
you feel you misestimated.
Regards Roger



At 10:15 PM 04/11/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi Roger,
>After finishing the total replacement of plastic parts in a M&H spinet I
>realized that it might have been wise to do all damper alignment  before
>replacing wippen and hammer assemblies. O:(
>But the piano was not available at the time. Only had the action at home.
>Joe Goss
>----------
>> From: Roger Jolly <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca>
>> To: pianotech@ptg.org
>> Subject: Re: Plastic parts
>> Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 9:42 PM
>> 
>> Hi Joe,
>>          I'll Take a stab from memory. Action rail has wips,  butts. and
>> damper levers assembled.
>> 1. screw action into piano. 2. set keybed nose bolts. 3. damper wires are
>> bent. Damper blocks
>> are installed to predermined level. 4. Minor adjustment made to damper
>> wires by string plucking.
>> 5. extra wire length is trimmed off. Hammers and shanks are preglued.
>> 6.Shanks and hammers glued to butts, rough spacing is done by shank
>> positioning. I use a slight variation in rebuilding, i prefer to install
>> the damper blocks without felt, sliding bicord and tricord down the
>string
>> makes a better fit in my book. I install shanks with out hammers, then
>> travel shanks no hammers makes it very easy to paper the flanges. I then
>> clamp the shanks and trim all to the length, then install the hammers. 
>>   On changing plastic damper flanges, I change the felt at the same time,
>> it saves a great deal in messing around chasing bleeding dampers, felt
>and
>> flanges plus regulation of dampers 4hrs average.
>>   Regards Roger
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> At 06:51 PM 04/11/98 -0700, you wrote:
>> >Bob,
>> >That seems a little slow. The most difficult thing was the dampers for
>me.
>> >Your idea of leaving the straps off is interesting. BTW does anyone out
>> >there know the order and procedure of building an action that is used in
>> >the factory?
>> >Joe Goss
>> >----------
>> >> From: fndango@azstarnet.com
>> >> To: pianotech@ptg.org
>> >> Subject: Plastic parts
>> >> Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 3:07 AM
>> >> 
>> >> When I posted a query for the time to replace a set of plastic damper
>> >> levers a month ago, I got no takers. But I have seen some posts on the
>> >> subject of plastic parts recently, so perhaps this info will be
>valuable
>> >> to someone:
>> >> 
>> >> I recently finished replacing hammer & wippen flanges, backchecks,
>> >> jacks, and damper levers on a 1948 M & H console. Here are the
>> >> approximate times for replacing various parts: damper levers - 12/hr.,
>> >> backchecks - 60/hr., flanges & jacks- 40/hr.
>> >> 
>> >> For those who may not have tried this, here are some suggestions:
>> >> 
>> >> If you haven't invested in wire-bending pliers yet, do so. The
>> >> side-to-side kind is the most useful. The backwards-and-forwards type
>> >> can also be useful. The recently-available parallel reamer sets are
>> >> great for a $12 investment. I have found them at Schaff and APSCO. 
>> >> 
>> >> Procedure-wise, my first step was to replace the damper levers. Take
>out
>> >> an old one, snap off the part above the flange, and hold it against
>the
>> >> new lever while you approximate the bend of the old one. Install the
>new
>> >> lever, mount the head, and do a finer bending to match the neighbors.
>> >> Then cut off the excess wire. Next, I repinned the hammer flanges,
>using
>> >> the neighbors and the string cuts as guides. Chucking a backcheck tool
>> >> into a power drill saved some time in installing the new backchecks.
>> >> 
>> >> I should mention that I removed the hammer rest rail, the hammer
>spring
>> >> rail, and the letoff rail before doing any work. This action had a
>metal
>> >> action rail, and it was more difficult to work with than a wooden one.
>> >> Action screws don't go into a metal rail easily unless they are
>> >> perfectly straight and match the threading of the rail. Before turning
>> >> the screws in, back them up until they "click" into the right
>position.
>> >> 
>> >> I left the bridle straps disconnected and the keys out of the piano
>when
>> >> I reinstalled the action(as well as leaving out the aux. rails). This
>> >> left easy access for final regulation of the dampers, and for spacing
>> >> and traveling of the hammers. Then I installed the letoff rail,
>> >> connected the bridle tapes(making sure that the jack springs were
>> >> seated), set letoff, installed the hammer spring rail and hammer rest
>> >> rail, set rest rail position, lost motion, keydip, and damper lift
>from
>> >> key.
>> >> 
>> >> I think that covers the main items. If I've missed something
>important,
>> >> I think I can count on someone to spot it. Installing the action and
>> >> regulation took 8 hours (there was key easing and misc. minor stuff to
>> >> deal with, too).
>> >> 
>> >> This is a nice piano and well worth the effort. It's not easy to work
>> >> efficiently enough to make it pay very well, but it can be done.
>> >> 
>> >> Bob Anderson
>> >> Tucso, AZ
>> > 
>> Roger Jolly
>> Baldwin Yamaha Piano Centre
>> Saskatoon and Regina
>> Saskatchewan, Canada.
>> 306-665-0213
>> Fax 652-0505
> 
Roger Jolly
Baldwin Yamaha Piano Centre
Saskatoon and Regina
Saskatchewan, Canada.
306-665-0213
Fax 652-0505