Plastic parts back

[Mark Story]

James,

I thought this when I first read the post.  However, I'm sure the fractions
Bob included mean parts completed "per hour" rather than total hours.  Then,
total time would be around 10 hours - a chunk of change for a vertical true,
but still not 120 hours.  I picked up one of these just for the cost of
moving.  It's not viable as piece work, but I am going to do the work and
give it to my daughter and son-in-law.

Mark Story, RTT
Eastern Washington University
-----Original Message-----
From: James Grebe <pianoman@inlink.com>
To: pianotech@ptg.org <pianotech@ptg.org>
Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 4:33 PM
Subject: Re: Plastic parts back


>Hi.
> It just seems to me that spending 120 hours + parts cost is way too much
to
>spend for repair of ANY vertical piano.  I do not know what you charge per
>hour?  I know it would be an educational experience , but...
>James Grebe
>R.P.T. of the P.T.G
>pianoman@inlink.com
>Creator of Handsome Hardwood Caster Cups and Practical Piano Peripherals in
>St. Louis, MO
>-----Original Message-----
>From: fndango@azstarnet.com <fndango@azstarnet.com>
>To: pianotech@ptg.org <pianotech@ptg.org>
>Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 6:07 PM
>Subject: Plastic parts
>
>
>>When I posted a query for the time to replace a set of plastic damper
>>levers a month ago, I got no takers. But I have seen some posts on the
>>subject of plastic parts recently, so perhaps this info will be valuable
>>to someone:
>>
>>I recently finished replacing hammer & wippen flanges, backchecks,
>>jacks, and damper levers on a 1948 M & H console. Here are the
>>approximate times for replacing various parts: damper levers - 12/hr.,
>>backchecks - 60/hr., flanges & jacks- 40/hr.
>>
>>For those who may not have tried this, here are some suggestions:
>>
>>If you haven't invested in wire-bending pliers yet, do so. The
>>side-to-side kind is the most useful. The backwards-and-forwards type
>>can also be useful. The recently-available parallel reamer sets are
>>great for a $12 investment. I have found them at Schaff and APSCO.
>>
>>Procedure-wise, my first step was to replace the damper levers. Take out
>>an old one, snap off the part above the flange, and hold it against the
>>new lever while you approximate the bend of the old one. Install the new
>>lever, mount the head, and do a finer bending to match the neighbors.
>>Then cut off the excess wire. Next, I repinned the hammer flanges, using
>>the neighbors and the string cuts as guides. Chucking a backcheck tool
>>into a power drill saved some time in installing the new backchecks.
>>
>>I should mention that I removed the hammer rest rail, the hammer spring
>>rail, and the letoff rail before doing any work. This action had a metal
>>action rail, and it was more difficult to work with than a wooden one.
>>Action screws don't go into a metal rail easily unless they are
>>perfectly straight and match the threading of the rail. Before turning
>>the screws in, back them up until they "click" into the right position.
>>
>>I left the bridle straps disconnected and the keys out of the piano when
>>I reinstalled the action(as well as leaving out the aux. rails). This
>>left easy access for final regulation of the dampers, and for spacing
>>and traveling of the hammers. Then I installed the letoff rail,
>>connected the bridle tapes(making sure that the jack springs were
>>seated), set letoff, installed the hammer spring rail and hammer rest
>>rail, set rest rail position, lost motion, keydip, and damper lift from
>>key.
>>
>>I think that covers the main items. If I've missed something important,
>>I think I can count on someone to spot it. Installing the action and
>>regulation took 8 hours (there was key easing and misc. minor stuff to
>>deal with, too).
>>
>>This is a nice piano and well worth the effort. It's not easy to work
>>efficiently enough to make it pay very well, but it can be done.
>>
>>Bob Anderson
>>Tucso, AZ
>>
>