Replacing corded butt flanges

[Clyde Hollinger]

moment@pacbell.net wrote:
> 
> I'd like to now solicit the members of the list for a suggestion.  I just picked
> up a Yamaha studio action with many broken butt flange cords.  The cords are
> brown, not the usual white.  I don't want to remove the hammers.  At this point
> I'm thinking of detaching the bridal straps and letting the whips drop to gain
> access to the screw side of the flange to facilitate attaching new cords.  I
> suppose I'll use parachute cord (I've used it to replace grand whip cords).
> Being so close to the center pin I'm afraid to use CA so I'm thinking of using
> tweezers and prewetting the ends of the cord with Titebond.  Any suggestions?
> Any slick tool ideas?  I have a feeling this could be very tedious and
> straining.  I'm very far-sighted so this kind of fine work is difficult if I
> have to do it by eye.
> 
> Thanks
> Dwight Keyes
> Keyes Piano Tuning
> (714) 521-1305
> 
Dwight:

I've done this job two or three times before I had the advantage of the
pianotech list.  I figured it was a lot less tedious to remove and
number all hammer/flange assemblies, replace all the flanges with new
ones from Yamaha (which they sent me free for one piano that wasn't very
old at the time), then reassemble.  Of course you will need to travel
the hammers afterward.  The saving in aggravation and labor, in addition
to the neat glue job on the new flanges, more than made up for the extra
parts cost.  

One caution if you use this method:  I think self-tapping flange screws
are used in that aluminum rail.  Use care to make sure the screws don't
"cross-thread" when replacing the hammer assembly.

A bag of 100 flanges from Yamaha might cost you about $40-$50 by now.  I
did these jobs some years ago.  I will read other responses with
interest to learn if there is a better way.

Clyde Hollinger, RPT
Lititz, PA