Gilreath & all, I will try this PVC-E next chance I get. BTW, I guess I should have specified how I have buffed an occasional keytop.. (once every couple years...) With an automotive type circular buffer and wool pad at about 1200-1400 RPM using automotive type buffing compound. Works great for me. Thanks, Greg Torres Gilreath wrote: > Wim, Greg, et al, > > A few thoughts. I have found the PVC-E adhesive (which has been discussed on > the list before) to work exceptionally well for gluing on both ivory and sets > of conventional keytops. It's easy to work with, doesn't "eat into" the > plastic tops, has good gap-filling properties and remains slightly flexible so > the top doesn't pop off of the key when subjected to climatic changes. > > As to buffing, a standard buffer or bench grinder fitted with a buffing wheel > is way too fast for buffing plastic tops. I haven't worked with the Vagias > tops but have had great results buffing other tops with white polishing > compound and a slow speed buffing wheel. > > Let us know how it all looks when you get it going, Jim. > > Allan > > Allan L. Gilreath, RPT > Gilreath Piano & Organ Co. > Calhoun, GA USA > Gilreath@aol.com > > In a message dated 98-05-21 20:45:28 EDT, you write: > > << Willem, > > I think the problem is the solvents in the 3M spray adhesive. It is a lot > stronger > chemically than rubber cement, and it will eat into the plastic although you > can > still use naphtha to clean it when it is still fresh. I had a similar > experience. > I don't believe it is the keytops themselves because when I used the latex > based > adhesives I have never had this problem. > > And you can buff keytops if they are acrylic plastic. Only the white abs top > from > Vagias can be buffed. The others (Vagias) are made of a softer plastic. The > molded > tops from American Supply can also be buffed. > It is handy to be able to buff a scratch out especially when you happen to > accidentally scratch one when installing. JMHO > > Regards, > Greg Torres > >>
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