bridge problem

[Gregory Torres]

Barrie,

It is a messy job either way you do it. The only benefit from the hypodermic is that
you can eliminate most of the air that usually is trapped at the bottom of the hole.
As for controlling the flow, not the greatest, but you do have some. After filling
the holes/cracks and re-inserting the bridge pins the epoxy will ooze out some. Then
after you wipe off the excess and evaporation, curing and "sponge" effect start to
take place you will probably have to add another layer of epoxy. However, one time I
did this repair and I guess I got lucky 'cause when the epoxy started to cure all I
had to do was take a razor blade and sharp chisel to it to trim the excess. (before
it is totally cured, as in the "rubbery" stage) Every other time I had to apply a
little more epoxy to build.

BTW, For the last 3 bass bridge jobs I made my own duplicates using the bridge
capping material from Schaff and some rock maple for the shelf and base of bridge.
Capping material is about $50.00 for a 30" x 30" square sheet and enough to make a
whole bunch of bass bridge caps. I hooked up with a shop down here who can get good
quality seasoned northern rock maple. I now prefer to make my own bridges but will
still do the epoxy repair when it's a PSO.

Yeah, I know I can send it off to someone else to do the work and mark up the price
to make a profit but I found it to be a very rewarding experience being able to make
my own bass bridge.

Regards,
Greg Torres

Barrie Heaton wrote:

> Hi Greg,
>
> I like the idea of using a hypodermic needle to get the glue in place
> (less messy) Do you layer the glue and wait for each layer to dry. I
> would imagine you would have to have the glue quite viscose.  Also, is
> it easy  to control once you have applied pressure to the plunger e.g.
> if you pull the plunger back does it suck excess back in to the seringe.
> I think the use of a syringe for hairline cracks on bridges would be
> quite useful, if you could get good control of the flow of the glue.
>
> Of course, as Carl pointed out the correct way would be to change the
> Bridge.  However, I believe cost is the overriding factor for this job.
> That is the reason why I would use this type of repair, plus it can be
> done on site with minimal inconvenience and cost to the client.
>
> Barrie.
>
> In article <354E5691.EA30AD37@adisfwb.com>, Gregory Torres
> <Tunapiana@adisfwb.com> writes
> >Barrie,
> >
> >I think that your repair option is a good choice for some situations, and I also
> >agree with you regarding clamping, however if epoxy repairs are done carefully
> >there really shouldn't be any problems such as described (#2) Shrinkage occurs
> >if
> >you thin the epoxy too much and don't allow for evaporation & the "sponge"
> >effect
> >of the wood. Also, I use a medium size hypodermic needle to get the epoxy down
> >into the hole from the bottom which eliminates most of the air pocket problems.
> >And while wood is the first choice shimming wouldn't necessarily be better for
> >the sound, especially if the instrument is not made with good quality
> >wood/strings/scale to begin with? Just another thought.
> >
> >Regards,
> >Greg Torres
>
> --
>
> Barrie Heaton                                  |  Be Environmentally Friendly
> URL: http://www.airtime.co.uk/forte/piano.htm  |  To Your Neighbour
> The UK PIano Page                              |
> pgp  key on request                            |  HAVE YOUR PIANO TUNED