Brass butt problem

[Gregory Torres]

Rob,

I don't think I have ever seen this type of hammer butt assembly. All the ones I have seen
like this have a butt plate screwed to the butt and a small slot where the center pin is
fastened by the butt plate. I don't think I have ever seen one with centerpin pivoting in
felt unless you mean the bushing felt in the flange??

Curious,
Greg Torres

Robert B Edwardsen wrote:

> Hi Greg:
>
> What I meant was that sometimes in a typical butt plate (with a threaded hole) the plate
> is a little out of alignment which allow the plate to be tightned down but the butt still
> wobbles because because the center pin is not in the groove.
>
> As far as the glue goes, sometimes there is a tiny split in the wood below the felt lined
> hole the centerpin pivots in which allows a little wobble in the hammer butt assembly.
>
> Rob
>
> Gregory Torres wrote:
>
> > Rob,
> >
> > So, you are saying then that you have the type of hammer butt where the brass plate is
> > attached directly to the butt with a wood screw? If so, I have found that cleaning and
> > filing the surface of the hammer butt where the butt plate attaches helps sometimes.
> > The butt and butt plate have to mate precisely. But if the screw hole is stripped no
> > amount of tightening will do it. And if that part is ok but the flange bushing is worn
> > slightly you will either have to re-pin or replace the flange. (I guess that part is
> > obvious)  ;-)
> >
> > But in reading your post further it sounds as if you may have an unusual type of
> > flange/butt assembly in which case maybe replacing the felt and putting CA or epoxy in
> > the screw hole???
> >
> > Hope this helps..
> >
> > Regards,
> > Greg Torres
> >
> > Robert B Edwardsen wrote:
> >
> > > If the brass is not cracked my experience has been that sometimes the pin is not
> > > quite lined up and that makes the butt really loose, other times I have found small
> > > cracks/splits in the wood of the butt below the felt lined pin hole allow the butt
> > > to have a little wobble.
> > >
> > > I would imagine brass is pretty easy to mold since it has a pretty low melting
> > > point compared to Stainless Steel.
> > >
> > > Rob Edwardsen, RPT
> > >
> > > Gregory Torres wrote:
> > >
> > > > James,
> > > >
> > > > Is it the butt plates that are breaking or the rail itself? If it is chronic
> > > > you may just have a case where the brass  has  "crystallized". I don't know if
> > > > this is a legitimate technical term for it but I don't know any other way to
> > > > explain it except that the brass has changed it's molecular structure and has
> > > > weakened. Or somewhere another tech has over-tightened the screws weakening the
> > > > brass. If it is the rail you may have to have the brass rail duplicated. I
> > > > don't know who does this anymore-anyone else???
> > > >
> > > > You might also be able to get by with the brass rail flange/plate repair clips
> > > > sold by Apsco or Schaff. They have proven indispensable for me many times. I
> > > > keep a couple dozen of the different types in my parts bin at all times. Good
> > > > Luck.
> > > >
> > > > BTW, maybe someone can explain why stainless steel has not been used in this
> > > > type of application (I haven't seen it used anyways) besides being more costly
> > > > than brass, perhaps??? Del?? any others??
> > > >
> > > > Regards,
> > > > Greg Torres
> > > >
> > > > James Dally wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > I installed new butts and hammers on a Kroehler upright.  I have checked
> > > > > the brass rail and the brass butts where the screw goes in.  This is the
> > > > > type where the screw goes through the rail and then the brass butt receives
> > > > > the threaded screw.  The butts have been replaced where hammers have
> > > > > loosened but the problem continues.  When it seems I have solved the
> > > > > problem, another hammer loosens.  As near as I can tell the rail is not
> > > > > cracked.  If anyone has had experience with this problem I will certainly
> > > > > appreciate advice.  Jim Dally