A few thoughts on stringing, if you don't mind.... 1) Pinblock Support. Probably we lose more sleep over this than is warranted. Modern pinblocks are generally tough enough to withstand stringing without any bottom support. As are the plates they are attached to. Pinblock bottom support is insurance, and as with all insurance policies, you'll not miss it unless it's not there. So do it, just don't panic if you happen to drive a pin in off to the side of your support block. 2) More on Pinblock Support. Wedges have been used by most piano factories for a really long time now. They are faster and more flexible than scissors jacks, hydraulic jacks, machinists jacks and whatever jacks. I use four to six equally spaced under a long maple block. Do the whole thing in one fell swoop and you won't need to worry about moving it as you go along. 3) Right or Left Handed. I'm right handed and I have always strung from left to right. It's always seemed easier to me this way. The left handed stringers I have taught seem to prefer from right to left. It matters not as long as all of the strings get on there. As Les pointed out, the tenor strings go on before the bass strings. 4) Chipping to Pitch. The chipping sequence generally has more to do with loading the board in a certain sequence than with protecting the plate from breaking. Although it's probably a good idea to pull up the tenor/treble section before you do the bass. This is somewhat more critical with new soundboards than it is with older boards, and it's a lot more important with compression-crowned boards than it is with other types of soundboards. 5) Pay special attention to the part about blocking up the front legs to get the piano up to a comfortable working height. I didn't bother with it last week and my back is still complaining about it. Other than the above, just pay attention to all of the other good advise you've been reading. -- ddf
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