What about heating the broken pin by contacting the stub with a very large soldering iron, and _then_ trying the extractor? Once again, if you overdo, you can epoxy in a plug. At 08:23 AM 1/16/98 EST, Bill Simon wrote: >In conjunction with any of the proper methods for pin removal, consider >reducing the pin torque with heat. You have a lot of pin on which to put an >extractor tip. Put on the extractor tip tightly, then heat it with a torch for >a few seconds and try backing it out. ( Use a tiny torch or very tiny tip, >sideways, just hitting the tip of the extractor, protecting everything around >the pin. In my shop it would be possible to use an acetylene outfit with a >jewelry welding torch tip directly on the pin stub. It puts out a flame only >1/16" long) Alternatively, you could heat the tip of a punch to red hot, >-and I actually do mean red hot, because transfer of heat will not be that >good anyway, then press it onto the tip of the pin for a few seconds, then >extract. With a hot punch you do not need to shield anything around the pin. >High heat, fast, should heat the one pin sufficiently without affecting its >neighbors, whereas slow heating with a soldering gun may make a whole area >hot, and doesn't work very well anyway. > >Consider worst case scenario. You fall asleep and inadvertantly heat the pin >until it chars the few thousandths of an inch of pinblock around itself, then >it practically falls out. Simply drill out the wood to the diameter of the >hole in the plate, plug the hole with pinblock material, epoxied in, and >redrill for a new pin. > >Just a thought, or two. > >Bill Simon >Phoenix > > > Susan Kline P.O. Box 1651 Philomath, OR 97370 skline@proaxis.com "If I were determined to commit suicide, I would first try to do it with chocolate." -- Ashleigh Brilliant "If life really is just an illusion, please convey my compliments to the illusionist." -- Ashleigh Brilliant
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