Having fit the block and installed all the screws (a #18 tapered bit makes it simpler) I center punch the block with a punch I made. Then I drill the holes on a drill press. When drilling I also align the holes so the pins attain a position of support along the line of tension, mostly so the wire doesn't hang up on the pin behind it. If the webbing holes are close together I ream them with the same size bit but angle it so as to elongate the hole slightly towards the rear; otherwise I step up one size (+1/64). I don't want to remove too much material, a lot of drilling. I don't use bushings unless they were there in the first place. I'm not a bushing groupie, yet. :-) But with bushings, the holes between the bushing and block need to be aligned. Since I do not drill in the piano where the holes are aligned automatically, I drill the bushings from underneath at the pin angle when the plate is out. This keeps the hole centered at the bottom and angled back at the top. I you drill a bushing from the center at the top, your hole will be closer to the plate at the bottom of the bushing. I just finished a Chickering Quarter grand, two sections with a stepped flange. I'm glad that job is behind me. To mark the blind machine screw holes, I cut 1/4" felt punchings and placed them in the holes. I then placed paint on the end sticking out and pressed the block down, drilled the marks and got a perfect fit. It made my day. In the past I tried different markers but this worked the best. Jon Page
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