replacing back

[Delwin D Fandrich]

Mike Masters wrote:

> Del and William,
>     I don't know how much this will help. The pianos in question are
> Kimball 468S. I think I will either purchase or rent a 12" circular and
> go that route depending on cost(I don't know that I would ever use one
> again for anything else besides that). The cases are actually in
> beautiful condition cosmetically and I don't want to take any chances on
> messing them up by prying the glue joints loose.
>
> Mike Masters
> Masters Piano Service
> Lakewood, OH

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Mike,

I know nothing about Kimball vertical piano models. I do know that they tended to use quite a
bit of MDF as core stock. Any prying or wedging with chisels will almost certainly damage this
material. Now, if this were an old Kimball upright, I'd go along with Wim. They did build some
pretty solid cases back then.

When setting up the saw, be sure it is set to cut only as deep as absolutely necessary. Make
sure the blade is really sharp. Even if you have to take it off and get it sharpened yourself.
It doesn't have to be carbide. In fact, a good steel blade can be made to cut cleaner than most
typical carbide blades. If the saw doesn't want to cut easily in one pass, back off on the depth
of cut and do it in two or three passes. Just be sure the guide you run the left edge (usually)
of the saw base against is clamped down tight enough so that it cannot slip and make sure it is
perfectly straight. And, whatever you do, don't try this saw freehanded. Make a good guide. (No,
please don't ask me how I learned this. And I used to think I could really handle one of those
things.) Set up the cut to take material away from the original back only. Don't let the blade
drift into the side panel. It wouldn't be a bad idea to leave just a sliver still on the sides
to avoid damaging them. You can plane, sand or scrape the remaining wood away. Again, you
definitely don't want to wander into the side panel.

Measure the width of the back carefully before you start cutting. You'll want to be certain that
the new backs are exactly (!) the same width. If they are not, you may have to trim them with
your saw -- or shim them, as may be required -- before gluing on the new sides. You'll also want
to be sure that they are square. The probably are, but check anyway.

And, of course you're right. You'll probably never need a saw of this size or type again. Just
rent a good one. By the way, when I suggested a 12" saw, I was just guessing. You might want to
measure the depth of the back and then check the depth of cut on the saw. Get the smallest one
that will make the cut. Though if that was larger than a 12" machine I'd probably us it anyway
and figure out some other way to finish up. Saws larger than that are very difficult to handle.
In fact, the only larger one that I know of is the 16" Makita. A true monster.

Any more questions?

Regards,

Del