installing new knuckles

[Barrie Heaton]

Hi Roger,

I was taught differently.

The nap should run with the jack the carding gap is for repetition.

Also, use hot glue and run it along the slot _not_ in the slot the glue
works like  the collar on a hammer shank.  This is to allow removal at a
later date. Glue will seep into the slot but it is limited.  Doing it
this way allows you to get a snug fit to the bottom of the slot with
having to use excessive force.  

Barrie, 


In article <199812081624.KAA4786009@raiden.sk.sympatico.ca>, Roger Jolly
<baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca> writes
>
>    HI Arthur,
>                  Yes it is very important to have the nap facing the 
>    same direction, you need to have the same friction as the jack 
>    moves the hammer and shank forward  for maximum efficiency, and 
>    less friction on return for the best posible repetition. This 
>    presumes that the replacement knuckles are LEATHER. Much of the 
>    synthetic material that is being used iit's hard to tell. 
>      I use good old Tite bond. A tip worth noting, Use enough glue to 
>    fill the slot and the immediate area where the leather will touch 
>    the shank. any looseness in this area WILL be heard in the 
>    voicing.  It is also important to have the core fitting to the 
>    bottom of the slot. I have a small press for this job, but I used 
>    to do it with vice grips with leather glued to the jaws so as not 
>    to damage the new surface.
>      Using a small engineers square to ensure they are all square, 
>    (slot to core) can save potential problems later. Hopefully the new 
>    cores work out to be a force fit.
>      I have made a jig to ensure straighness, but a simple method, is 
>    to cut a block of wood so the hammer head can hang down ward and is 
>    just wide enough to let the flange swing down,
>    using the eye ball method,  check the flange end of the shank and 
>    the knuckle position as you go.   
>    Hope this helps.
>    Roger
>





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