aftertouch/front rail punchings

David ilvedson ilvey@a.crl.com
Wed, 1 Apr 1998 09:58:31 +0000


> From:          "David ilvedson" <ilvey@a.crl.com>
> To:            pianotech@ptg.org
> Date:          Wed, 1 Apr 1998 07:28:39 +0000
> Subject:       Re: aftertouch/front rail punchings
> Reply-to:      pianotech@ptg.org

List,

As I look back on my last post I want to clarify that when I say 
"raise the level of the sharp" I mean all the sharps will be 
leveled slightly higher to give the correct aftertouch and still 
have the key bottom out at about a nickel's thickness above the 
naturals...

David ilvedson, RPT
Pacifica, CA


> > Date:          Tue, 31 Mar 1998 22:28:34 -0800
> > From:          Delwin D Fandrich <pianobuilders@olynet.com>
> > Organization:  PianoBuilders/NW
> > To:            pianotech@ptg.org
> > Subject:       Re: aftertouch/front rail punchings
> > Reply-to:      pianotech@ptg.org
> 
> Hi Del,
> 
> When I say a "nickel's thickness" I mean that  is where I want 
> the key to stop with the correct aftertouch.  I will raise the 
> level of the sharp to get "correct" aftertouch with the key 
> bottoming out at about a nickel's thickness above the naturals.  
> Correct aftertouch will allow the jack to clear the knuckle and 
> still have a bit of clearance before it buries into the jack 
> stop felt.  
> 
> David ilvedson, RPT
> Pacifica, CA
> 
> 
> 
>  
> > 
> > David ilvedson wrote:
> > 
> > > Hi Roger,
> > >
> > > I like a nickel thickness and would find a dime's thickness too
> > > close to level for my taste.  Each to his own.
> > >
> > > David ilvedson, RPT
> > > Pacifica, CA
> > 
> > ---------------------------------
> > 
> > All of this begs the question, "how much aftertouch should there be?" A good case can be
> > made that neither a dime nor a nickel is correct. Then again either one might be.
> > 
> > When discussing aftertouch most people do tend to think of what is happening with the
> > front of the key. What we should be concerned with, of course, is what is happening with
> > the jack. Specifically, with the tip of the jack and its relationship to the hammershank
> > knuckle. This relationship depends on a variety of factors including the hammer blow
> > distance, the overall key-to-hammer lever ratio, the jack letoff distance and, most
> > specifically, the length of the jack lever.
> > 
> > Aftertouch -- whether it be a natural key or a sharp -- should be set so that the jack
> > clears the knuckle when the key is fully depressed. That may be 1.6 mm (a penny's worth),
> > it might be 1.8 mm (a nickel's worth), it could be 1.4 mm (a dime's worth) or even 1.7 mm
> > (a quarters worth). Usually it will come out to be somewhere between 1.0 and 2.0 mm.
> > 
> > -- ddf
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> 


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