Hi Joel -- Been there done that. Thanks for the advice anyway. Instead of taping the mylar to the bridge, I drilled guide holes close to each end and pinned the mylar in place. Then I marked the bridgepin holes with a single-needle voicing tool. (Doing a pattern with the pins in place would have been an excercise in futility -- so many pins were so badly blown out of their original places not to mention the differences in height and angles because of the problems.) ZR! RPT Ann Arbor MI diskladame@provide.net ---------- > From: Joel Rappaport <joelr@flash.net> > To: pianotech@ptg.org > Subject: Re: Cracked bridges > Date: Wednesday, September 24, 1997 10:50 AM > > About making a template on mylar for new bridge pins: > > I am sure this is well known, but I thought I would throw it out > anyway. When making that pattern, do not place the mylar _on top_ of > the bridge pins and sand through the mylar to form the pattern. Because > the bridge pins are slanted, you will get a false pattern for drilling > the holes in the new cap. First remove the old pins, tape the mylar in > position and, with an awl, mark where the _holes_ are. This will be an > accurate (or at least original) pattern for the new _holes_. > > Then count the number of notes you have marked. Compare that with the > number of notes in each section. Count and campare again and maybe a > third time. Be sure *all* notes are accounted for. :=) > > Joel Rappaport > Round Rock, Texas
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC