Plate Refinishing?

[Lance Lafargue]

First clean with TSP and clean with a nylon brush, scotchbrite pad, wet
sand, .  Then 320 grit paper.  Use fill putty with a plastic putty scraper
to work into holes and bad scratches(pro auto paint store). Rinse and Blow
with compressed air to prevent further rusting.  
ONLY if the plate is stripped, rusted, or unusually rough, (I seldom need
to do this priming) use high build premium quality primer -high speed
laquer-type. It's gray. Sand to 320 grit with wet/dry paper.  Rinse and
dry.  Then spray with 1 cup HIGH QUALITY laquer thinner to 2 cups of DEFT
laquer (Deft lays flat fast and is very forgiving) (I USE SATIN), 2-3
tablspns of guilding powder.  Use splash of high quality retarder if you
have a humid situation (I always do). spray 2-3 coats of gold, then 2-3
coats of clear.  If you get orange peel or drips, just cloud from a
distance and it covers it. Bill Spurlock showed me most of this and it has
worked great for me.  I think it makes for a car-like finish with a
reasonable amount
of effort.  After your first two, you can do it while drinking coffee. I
spray outside with a mask.  Be safe.  Watch out for tiny bugs that lite on
the wet plate.  

NOTE:  I have finished plates with and without taking aggraffes out.  If
you take them out, cover hole with short roofing nails, if you don't, clean
string holes.  
Lance Lafargue, RPT
New Orleans Chapter
Covington, LA.
lafargue@iamerica.net

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> From: robert sadowski <rls@ncinter.net>
> To: pianotech@ptg.org
> Subject: Plate Refinishing?
> Date: Wednesday, September 10, 1997 7:56 PM
> 
> Dear list,
>      Could some of you rebuilders throw out some of your techniques for
> sealing the
> old plate finish before applying bronzing lacquer?  I hate the thought of
> stripping the old finish off.  In the past I've tried shellac, auto
sealers
> and primers and always seem to get a little lifting in those sharp bends
> around the struts.  
> 
> Thanks,
> Bob Sadowski RPT
> Erie, PA.