>> >>Greetings Steve, > Sorry but I can't agree with your post. Having taught a >steaming class for the Yamaha Canada staff Tech's, who are now converts, I >think we would all agree that there are some decided advantages to steam as >apposed to needling. (The hammers are not being torn with the needles) How >ever if you have read any of my previous post on the subject you will note >that I do not use the steam kettle approach, as I feel it lacks control. > > Having recieved several private posts for further imformation in the >last few months, I will try to lay out the complete procedure that I use, >that may be of help, and be safe for a relatively novice voicer. > > Assuming the piano is well regulated, strings are secure on bridges and >the instrument is well tuned. > > Tools required. > 1. 40 Watt Weller soldering iron with brass voicing head. > 2. Yamaha style voicing Blocks. 8" & 2 1/2" Length > 3. 10"X6" length of Irish linen. Draw a ball point line down the centre. > > Run chromatics up and down the key board to determine what you are >trying to achieve, reduction of volume in certain sections, or reduction of >percussive effects, or both. > Run octaves and double octaves from mid C to high C to determine >balance. Ideally I like the upper note to sit on top but not scream through. > Run major triad progressions root position down through the centre >section and over the tenor break. All three notes should sound like a >homogenous unit with no stand out notes > You should finger these exercises as evenly as possible at mf. If you >take your time on this section you will have a good under standing of the >potential of the instrument. > > Application. > I normally start in the first soprano section. This seems to be the area >that always needs the most attention. >1. Prop up the hammers with the voicing block and ensure that they are >even and firmly seated. >2. Wet the cloth and wring it out as much as possible. >3. Press the cloth around both shoulders with the hot iron. >4. Remove the cloth and press the whole hammer face and shoulder, with >the hot dry iron. >5. Reinstall action and observe change. >6. Reapply as required, or increase the dampness of the cloth in severe >cases. >7. Work your way out wards from this section using the octave and double >octave checks. >8. Check for loud notes. These you can invert the iron and steam at the >10 & 2 o'clock position of the hammer. >9. If you just want to remove percussion and inmpact noise, or mask V bar >noise. Again prop the hammers up line up the mark on the cloth with the >strike point, use the iron upside down with the cloth just damp and quick >dab the strike point. >10. Dry press all hammers quickly, recheck hammer string mating, correct >as required, >11. Some minor needling may be required, if so dry iron again. > > As a rule of thumb North American pianos need the least amount of >treatment re moisture. Except for the heavily doped trebles. Japanese >hammers a little more agressive, Korean pianos tend to need more again. > Once you pay your dues, you will find that you can control how much >moisture and where to target, > I have done about half a dozen clinics with this method and have >recieved nothing but possitive feed back. > As for felt seperating on Yamaha hammers, I think that there is only two >explinations. First the jet of steam was too agressive or the glue on the >molding was ready to fail in the first place. > Re; dry ironing, If the iron is really hot and significant pressure is >applied, you can almost reverse the steam, again more control than the >kettle approach. > With very little practice the whole job can be accomplished with the >action resting in your lap at the piano. This makes life easy for touch ups >and samples. > If it would be of value I could take some pics. if the Journal would >print them. > Happy Thanksgiving to all south of the border. >Hope this helps. >Roger Jolly >University of Saskatchewan >Dept. of Music. > Roger Jolly University of Saskatchewan Dept. of Music.
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