Water on hammers -Reply

[Roger Jolly]

>Steve Peason
>Yamaha
>
>Greetings Steve,
                 Sorry but I can't agree with your post. Having taught a
steaming class for the Yamaha Canada staff Tech's, who are now converts, I
think we would all agree that there are some decided advantages to steam as
apposed to needling. (The hammers are not being torn with the needles) How
ever if you have read any of my previous post on the subject you will note
that I do not use the steam kettle approach, as I feel it lacks control.

   Having recieved several private posts for further imformation in the
last few months, I will try to lay out the complete procedure that I use,
that may be of help, and be safe for a relatively novice voicer.

   Assuming the piano is well regulated, strings are secure on bridges and
the instrument is well tuned.

   Tools required.
   1.  40 Watt Weller soldering iron with brass voicing head.
   2.  Yamaha style voicing Blocks. 8" & 2 1/2" Length
   3.  10"X6" length of Irish linen. Draw a ball point line down the centre. 

   Run chromatics up and down the key board to determine what you are
trying to achieve, reduction of volume in certain sections, or reduction of
percussive effects, or both.
   Run octaves and double octaves from mid C to high C to determine
balance. Ideally I like the upper note to sit on top but not scream through.
   Run major triad progressions root position down through the centre
section and over the tenor break. All three notes should sound like a
homogenous unit with no stand out notes
   You should finger these exercises as evenly as possible at mf. If you
take your time on this section you will have a good under standing of the
potential of the instrument. 

   Application. 
   I normally start in the first soprano section. This seems to be the area
that always needs the most attention.
1.   Prop up the hammers with the voicing block and ensure that they are
even and firmly seated.
2.   Wet the cloth and wring it out as much as possible.
3.   Press the cloth around both shoulders with the hot iron.
4.   Remove the cloth and press the whole hammer face and shoulder, with
the hot dry iron.
5.   Reinstall action and observe change.
6.   Reapply as required, or increase the dampness of the cloth in severe
cases.
7.   Work your way out wards from this section using the octave and double
octave checks.
8.   Check for loud notes. These you can invert the iron and steam at the
10 & 2 o'clock position of the hammer.
9.   If you just want to remove percussion and inmpact noise, or mask V bar
noise.  Again prop the hammers up line up the mark on the cloth with the
strike point, use the iron upside down with the cloth just damp and quick
dab the strike point.
10.  Dry press all hammers quickly, recheck hammer string mating, correct
as required,
11.  Some minor needling may be required, if so dry iron again.

   As a rule of thumb North American pianos need the least amount of
treatment re moisture. Except for the heavily doped trebles.  Japanese
hammers a little more agressive, Korean pianos tend to need more again.
   Once you pay your dues, you will find that you can control how much
moisture and where to target,
   I have done about half a dozen clinics with this method and have
recieved nothing but possitive feed back.
   As for felt seperating on Yamaha hammers, I think that there is only two
explinations. First the jet of steam was too agressive or the glue on the
molding was ready to fail in the first place.
   Re; dry ironing, If the iron is really hot and significant pressure is
applied, you can almost reverse the steam, again more control than the
kettle approach.
   With very little practice the whole job can be accomplished with the
action resting in your lap at the piano. This makes life easy for touch ups
and samples.
  If it would be of value I could take some pics. if the Journal would
print them.
  Happy Thanksgiving to all south of the border.
Hope this helps.
Roger Jolly
University of Saskatchewan
Dept. of Music.