Uprights

[David ilvedson]

> Date:          Wed, 05 Nov 1997 17:47:17
> To:            pianotech@ptg.org
> From:          Roger Jolly <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca>
> Subject:       Uprights
> Reply-to:      pianotech@ptg.org

I can't seem to get the circular saw in the San Francisco area.  
It seems it is a liability to Dremel...missing fingers etc...

>    2. After the shanks are glued and roughly spaced and travelled, we clamp
> the shanks with the samples of the old shanks at the end of each section.
> Using a circular saw in a Dremel tool all the shanks are trimmed to length
> in a few minutes. Doing the butts, shanks and hammers, with a little
> practice is a half day job

I have been making my bass dampers ala Bill Spurlocks articles 
in the PTG Journal.  The longer dampers really help with upright 
bass dampening.  By making my, which is really pretty easy, 
I can determine the correct felt to use from my supply.  What is 
the "4 contact point type treble blocks"?  Do you mean the 
stitched blocks?

>    5. Damper replacement. We buy Yamaha U1 damper sets with blocks and
> install these, imagination is needed for each unit, but the triple bass
> blocks and 4 contact point type treble blocks are far more efficent than
> the originals. Once you try them you will never return to the supply house
> type dampers. The Renner dampers seem to give a lot more geometry problems.
> The quieting of the over ring problems, associated with the large verticals
> greatly enhances their performance.

I haven't tried it but some people advocate the same for key 
bushings that aren't in bad shape.  

>    A postscipt re steaming wippen cloth before someone screams. God
> judgement has to be used weather to replace or not.
>    Well guys I hope this helps, as it sure can boost your summer income,
> and gain you a great deal of experience and credibility in your area.
> Kind Regards.
> Roger Jolly
> University of Saskatchewan
> Dept. of Music.
> 
> 
ilvey
Pacifica, CA
ilvey@a.crl.com