Upright Damper Blocks

David ilvedson ilvey@a.crl.com
Sat, 15 Mar 1997 12:44:40 +0000


> Date:          Fri, 14 Mar 1997 14:48:34 -0500
> From:          nhunt@jagat.com (Newton Hunt)
> Subject:       Re: Upright Damper Blocks
> To:            pianotech@byu.edu
> Reply-to:      pianotech@byu.edu

Read Bill Spurlock's articles in the Journal...June/July 1989 I
believe.  I fear upright dampers no longer!


> One way to truely mess up is not to set your samples for conform exactly to
> the original setup.  There is very little room for deviation in the area of
> pedal timeing.
>
> If these are new levers and flanges with new springs you will need to adjust
> the tension of the springs, which will change the timing.
>
> Timing is everything.  You will need to adjust it several times so leave
> yourself more than three times the time to get it settled in.
>
> Put some duct tape on the strings at the bottom of the dampers in the bass.
> This helps in getting a nice straight line when gluing on the felts.
>
> Make yourself a stick about 18" long with the block of wood glued on the
> bottom about half way long the length to act as a pivot.  Secure a metal L
> bracket so it extends to the right and will hook under the damper lift rod
> tongue.  Make sure the felts on the hangers are in good condition
> (critical).  You will be using the lever to raise the damper levers for
> doing timing.  Using the damper pedal is too "acquard".
>
> Have FUN!!!
>
>         Newton
>         nhunt@jagat.com
>
>
>
ilvey, RPT
Pacifica, CA




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