Keybed squeak

[Newton Hunt]

>Dear List,
>
>Yesterday I tuned Young Change grand G 012805.  The piano sounds lovely,
>but the una chorda does not.
>

Keybed noises can be a problem to trace, because they can come from so many
places.  With most pianos I use a powdered teflon spray to lubricate the key
bed at keyframe contact points and spray the contact points on the key
frame.  Do not forget to lub the dogs or frame retainers at the back of the
keybe and frame.

One major noise area of this instrument will be the contact point where the
shift lever and keyframe contact each other.

Lubricate the spring, spring contactpoints on key frame and the stop block.
This permits easy action insertion and removal.

It is also possible that drop screws, and hammer screws can contact the
underside of the pinblock and many pianos have a shipping screwon the hammer
flange rail that can contact the pinblock.

I have a customer with a 1930s S&S B with perpetual noises.  One poping
sound when using the soft pedal hard or fast stumped me for several months
until I had the customer pump the pedal and I had my hand on a pivot block
and felt it move, just maybe .006" but enough to make a nise.  A screwdriver
solved THAT problem.

I have lubed, sqanded, scrapped and finally used Proteck on the frame and
bed with really long lasting results.  This teacher uses her piano a LOT.
She is the one that keeps me out of the poor house.

Check the guides for the lever and if it is contacting any other piece of
the trap works.

I did have a similar problem with a balance rail glide that was finger
turning loose.

Check for splinters on bed, frame and dogs and around trap works.

Check that the pivot pins, felt pedal box liners, lubricate the bottom end
of the bedal rod and around the guide bushing and the top of the rod.  VJ
lube works well here.  Pedal pivots can be very noisey.

Check that the pedal braces are securely screwed in place or are tichtly in
place.  If they are not you can loosen the top block bolts and place a
carboard (shirt type) on top of the front of the top block which will pivot
the pedal box toward the back leg and firmly secure the braces.

Check that the pillars are firmly secured to the top block and the pedal
box.  If not these MUST be fixed first.  If these joints are loose they can
be fixed with a hammer and a carpenters wedge cut to the proper width and
with the end cut off squire and the samw size of the wedge(s) in the
pillars.  Tap the box or block (if the box is the problem you will need to
remove all the parts) so it is securely on its shoulders then drive the
wedges in as far as they will go.  And there you have it, a nice new lyre.

Check that the spring is firmly screwed to the rim.

Check that all screws under the keybead are tight and that all screws the
hold the keyframe togather are tight.

Make sure the glides are FIRMLY in contact with the keybed.

Check out the kkeyblocks and the slignment system.

I hope this is helpful.

        Newton
        nhunt@jagat.com
        New Brunswick, NJ