Rim splitting

[Lance Lafargue]

Epotek's # is 1-800-227-2201
They're in Billerica, MA  They're product is dated and made to each order. 
It's shelf life is guaranteed one year.  Many techs use it for pinblock
restorastion particularly on Broadwood where the pinblock cannot be
removed.  I'm doing a double flanged / two part block for a Chickering next
week.  They can send you technical lit. for Piano technicians on the
pinblock procedure with your order.  
West Systems # is 517-684-7286   BUT!!  Any good boat repair place will
have it though.  It is much cheaper than Epotek but it's thicker in
consistency (like pancake syrup).  Prices stay the same no matter where you
buy the West System.  Shelf life is "years" on the West System.  I've had
the hardener go bad after 5-6 years, but the company told me the resin
should last longer.  Good luck.  Write if you'd like any other info.
Lance Lafargue, RPT
New Orleans Chapter
Covington, LA.
lafargue@iamerica.net

----------
> From: Ted Simmons <ted@PALMNET.NET>
> To: pianotech@ptg.org
> Subject: Re: Rim splitting
> Date: Friday, June 27, 1997 1:23 PM
> 
> Lance,
>    Where do you get this West Systems and Epotek epoxy?
> 
> Ted Simmons
> 
> >I would fill/repair with West Systems epoxy.  If you have to, drill
holes
> >along the crack to wedge a tool in to open it up a bit.  You may
consider
> >dental oral syringes to inject the epoxy. Plastic grocery bags will keep
> >the epoxy from spreading too far.
> >If you need thinner epoxy, Epotek makes epoxy as thin as water.
> >
> >Lance Lafargue, RPT
> >New Orleans Chapter
> >Covington, LA.
> >lafargue@iamerica.net
> >
> >----------
> >> From: Delwin D Fandrich <pianobuilders@olynet.com>
> >> To: pianotech@ptg.org
> >> Subject: Rim splitting
> >> Date: Thursday, June 26, 1997 8:40 PM
> >>
> >> John W. McKone wrote:
> >>
> >> > I just got back from looking at a Yamah CFIII that I will be
rebuilding
> >> > soon, and found one heck of a rim split.  This is not your typical
> >> > lamination separation that any of us who rebuild see fairly often,
but
> >a
> >> > horizontal split completely through the rim, from inside to outside.
> >The
> >> > split is about a foot long and is located about one inch above the
> >> > soundboard.  It begins on the bass side of the piano, just where the
> >rim
> >> > begins to curve around the back.
> >> >
> >> > Has anyone had any experience repairing something like this?
> >>
> >> Yes. If possible try to find out why it split. I've done three that
> >> split in a similar manner due to the piano being dropped by movers.
This
> >> seems to happen more often in Japanese & Korean pianos because of the
> >> "select hardwood" that are typically used in their rims. It's doubtful
> >> that there would be a structural defect in a piano like this, but
check
> >> it out anyway.
> >>
> >>
> >> > I'm trying to
> >> > decide what glue and/or filler to use to get the best combination of
> >> > stability and structural integrity.  It seems to me that fiberglass
> >might
> >> > be the best bet for gap filling,
> >>
> >> "Fiberglass" may fill the gap, but it's a lousy adhesive. Use a good
> >> quality, reasonably fresh epoxy designed for wood bonding. Check a
> >> marine supply shop. Geougen (check spelling?) Brothers WEST System
epoxy
> >> is one that would be very good for this purpose.
> >>
> >> > but may not hold the split as well as something like resorcinal.
> >>
> >> Resorcinal is an excellent adhesive if the glue line is very thin. It
is
> >> a very poor gap filler.
> >>
> >> > Ideas? Comments?
> >>
> >> Assuming that you use epoxy, you will have to be certain that you
fully
> >> saturate the crack. This means that you will have to figure out some
> >> method of injecting epoxy fully into the cracked area. If you aren't
> >> able to do this, you may have to open the crack up further.
> >>
> >> I'll leave it to others to deal with repairing the polyester finish
> >> after you're through.
> >>
> >> Call if you want to discuss this further. I'm in the directory.
> >>
> >> ddf
> >>
> 
>