Vertical Damper Tool

[David ilvedson]

> Date:          Sat, 26 Oct 1996 14:41:47 -0800 (PST)
> From:          ron_and_lorene@juno.com (Ronald R Shiflet)
> Subject:       Vertical Damper Tool
> To:            Pianotech@byu.edu
> Reply-to:      pianotech@byu.edu

> List,
> 	Several years ago while learning how to do vertical dampers, I
> was getting really frustrated (I'm glad nobody else has went through
> this).  I was working on getting the dampers to lift evenly from the
> strings.  I had purchased the standard damper tool from a supply house
> (the kind that has a head that looks like PAC MAN), put it in my handle
> and was using it but it always seemed like that kind of tool had to be
> worked from the side but it wasn't real efficient since there were other
> damper heads to the side that always seemed to be in the way.  It seemed
> to me that it would be much easier if there were a way to approach it
> from the top.
> 	I purchased some more of these tools from the supply house to
> play with during my experiments.  My wife took a jewelers saw and cut
> the head off from this tool at the point where it connects to the shank.
>  We then soldered the head to the shank at a 90 degree angle.  This means
> that while the head is laying flat, the shank is going straight up and
> the notch in the head is no longer sideways but is straight in line with
> the shank.  We then had a tool that would access the wires from the top.
> 	This new tool doesn't work in all situations but it is useful in
> most situations.  As for the soldering, soft solder isn't strong enough.
>  You must use silver solder that you get from a welders supply (Wal Mart
> is NOT a welders supply !!!).  It must be heated red hot and it uses a
> special flux.  Perhaps Bill Spurlock can explain this solder if anyone
> has any questions.  Some people call it brazing but it isn't those long
> rods you typically see but rather comes in small rolls in fractional
> sizes.  It is the same solder you use in a band instrument shop to
> repair broken woodwind keys and it usually needs so much heat that a
> propane torch isn't enough.  Any questions, let me know.
>
> Originally it kind of looked like this (except the C faces down at 5
> o'clock:)
>
> ----------------------------------------------C
>
> Now it almost looks like this
>
> ____________________________     (side view)
>                                                                0
>
>
> Front view, o is the shank, c is the head.
>
> OC
>
> Clear as mud ???   Good !!!!
>
> Ron Shiflet, RPT
> Phoenix Chapter
>

Ron,

You need to read Bill Spurlock's damper adjustment articles in
the Pace series.  I regulated a set of dampers today using his
methods and I swear by them.  In principle:  The Hart repetition
tool works well for this...To get them to lift with the pedal
earlier hold tool against the top of the damper flange and pull
back on the damper head.  To lift later, pull damper wire at top
of damper flange towards you while pushing against damper head.
These adjustments need to practiced to get the feel.  As far as
spoon adjustments, the thin, flat L-shaped tool is the best.
But remember...Read Bill's articles!

ilvey, RPT