RQ Info on Transfering Dry Decal

[Glenn Grafton]

Roland'

I'm assuming your refering to the decals from Decals Unlimited.
I know of no reason why they couln't be put over a water based finish. Just
be sure to follow the directions carefully, ie the decal should be applied
over the finish without scuff sanding the finish, the dust causes the decal
not to stick.

Some tips from my experience:

Find the center of the decal both vertically & horizontally and mark the
decal, don't use the edges of the paper from the decal since they are not
normally cut square, ie:
          I
- Decal Name Here -
          I

Use these lines to center the decal. I ususally measure where the decal
should be and put a piece of masking tape just next to where the decal
should go and mark on the tape where the lines should match up, then tape
the decal down into position so it doesn't move.

Use something smooth to burnish the decal (something plastic worksk well),
I start at one side and work over. You can notice a change in the color of
the decal where it has transfered correctly. Once it has been rubbed on
lift the paper slowly starting at one side. Pull up slowly and watch that
none of the decal is still adhering to the paper. If it is, lay the paper
back down and burnish more.

You do need to apply a protective finish over the decal to protect it.

Glenn Grafton
Grafton Piano & Organ Co.
Souderton PA

>Hello list,
>
>I will soon be attempting my first try at putting on a dry soundboard decal.  I
>have been told that they are easy to put on but at $46.00 a decal I don't want
>to mess up.
>
>o  Can they be placed over a water based finish?
>
>o  Any tips for doing the rub/transfer part?
>
>o Should they be given a covering coat of clear finish or left "bare".
>
>o If they should have a cover coat, will water based be OK?
>
>Thanks for any advice,
>Rolland Miller, 706423604@compuserve.com
>
>Miller Piano Service
>Berea, Ohio