Unweighting keys, (repair)

[Alan Rudolph Zajicek]

On Wed, 24 Jul 1996 A440A@aol.com wrote:

>
> Jim Bryant  asks;
>
> >I get the impression that
> >one should fill the void left when key weights are removed.  Is there a
> >reason for this ?     Is there a justifiable reason to fill
> >the void left when removing weights,>
>      Keys that are to remain in service through many sets of hammers and
> shanks, etc, should be repaired so that they can be used in definitely.  That
> means,  they should be repaired  so that you have the option of installing a
> lead again in the future, perhaps right near where you are taking one out at
> present.  I have found the following procedure to work.
>

It seems to me that plugging holes, unless for cosmetic or changing
weigh-off, is unnecessary.  A hole drilled through a floor joist does not
weaken it while a notch does.  I believe that in aircraft wings, the
struts(?) that provide the shape of the wing and fuselage, have holes
purposely drilled in them to remove weight and ALSO add strength to the
assembly.

If you need to drill a new hole for another weight that overlaps the
unused hole, then I would certainly plug that hole.  I personally have
never had the pleasure of reweighing keys 8{> , although I have removed
leads in the past.  I do like the sound of the proceedures outlined in
previously posted mail.

Just my {  } thoughts.

Al Zajicek RPT

>     Drill the newly vacant hole(s) with the smallest Forstner bit possible to
> make a   straight sided hole. Glue in a plug, cut with a plug cutter, from
> similar wood, aligned as closely as possible to the key grain.  When dry,
>  finish the sides flush.
>      Cut a veneer patch that covers the hole(s) and surrounding area ,(
> overlap the edges at least half the diameter of the hole if possible, but
> stay 1/8" away from the top and bottom edge of the key.) Trace the outline of
> this patch on the side of the key, over the area you want to repair.
>      Set a flush bottom router bit in the drill press, lay the key on its
> side under it, and set the plunger stop so that the bottom of the bit will
> just touch the upper facing side of the key.  Slide a like thickness sheet of
> veneer under the key and  begin your cut with a plunge in the middle of your
> patch outline outline, locking the bit down after it hits the stop. You may
> want to set the bit to depth, and begin your cut in from the bottom edge,  it
> will leave a small gap, though unless this is a museum piece, I don't think
> it matters much.   Carefully take two cuts if this is your first time, as the
> control is an aquired skill.  Strive to keep a flat surface, and approach the
> edges carefully,  just leaving the pencil edge showing.  You will fit the
> veneer in with just a little light sanding on the edges of the patch.
>
>      Glue the patch into its shallow  mortise,  it makes a flush sided key
> that will  allow a hole to be drilled  anywhere in it if a lead needs to be
> added in the future . (Plus,  when you get the patch to meet really close, it
> is great source of job satisfaction, along with being a bullet-proof
repair.