worn back checks &squeaky wippens

[Dave Swartz, RPT]

At 03:36 PM 2/14/96 -0700, you wrote:
>I'm interested in advice/experiences regarding two situations I
>encountered recently.
>Situation #1: a 12 year old Steinway B needed new hammers,which I
>replaced.As I replaced the hammers, I noticed that 10-15 backchecks
>were quite worn.(The hammer tails were very rough)Sure enough, two
>days later the new hammertails cut through the backcheck leather.Is it
>best/less expensive to releather the backchecks or to replace them? If I
>releather them, where should I buy the leather, and what is the best way
>to cut and glue it?
>
>
>David Graham@niu.edu
>Northern Illinois University (Wim Blees Alma Mater)
>Dekalb Il
>
>
David,

Thanks for your inquiry.  I have found the backcheck leather from Pianotek a
very viable source.  It comes in I believe 2 different thicknesses (don't
have catalog in front of me).  What works well, at least in my experiences
is to first, mix up wall paper remover and water at a ratio of 10:1 (that is
10 parts water-1 part remover).  Secondly, apply the solution to the upper
back part of the checking leather (saturate) and then to the lower half in
front (saturate here also).  Thirdly, take your portable steamer (I have a
travel type for hammers and dampers) hold 3-4 keys above the steam and watch
the leather crickle (is that a word...crinkle?).  If steamed correctly you
will be able to pull the old leather off with your fingers.

Once the old leather is removed (the underfelt still remains...don't usually
need to replace this all that often..or you may at this time...remove in
same procedure) use a hair dryer or hot paint remover gun to accelerate
drying time.  You may just let the wood dry for a time and go on to cutting
new leather.

Cutting Leather:

        Using a cutting mat, a rotary cutter, ruler, fence and straight
edge, your cutting of strips will be most advantagous.  Measure the width of
your backchecks.  Then measure the distance of the total length needed to
adhere from back to exactly the bottom of backcheck.  Add .005 to this
measurement for stretching.  Cut the strips using your straight edge and
rotary cutter (the strips will be around 24" long or so).  Then set up you
guitine cutter or you may use the rotary cutter again, mark you place on the
cutting mat and cut it to perfect length.  The guitine (boy, I can't spell
tonight) will cut the buckskin quite accurately.

Once the strips are cut, dry fit one on a backcheck and make certain the
width and length are correct.  I use medium viscosity C/A glue-NO
accelerator.  Apply C/A glue to the upper back half of backcheck.  Firmly
place the new strip and seat in place.  Hold this for around 15 seconds or
so and then (still holding) apply glue on bottom front and wrap buckskin
around to bottom, lining the edge perfectly.

You will speed up once you do a few and be pleased with the results.

I'm sure there are some other neat ways of doing this, and I'm all ears.
This method has proven effective for me for many years.

Good Luck!

Dave Swartz, RPT
dms2000@pioneerplanet.infi.net