Chickering Strikes Again

Mark Story mstory@ewu.edu
Mon, 20 Nov 1995 16:37:57 -0800 (PST)


Hi Eric,

I use chalk too, but lately have been mixing it in a conconction of
rubbing alcohol so I can brush it on.

For a long time, I have been bedding my new blocks with polyester
(fiberglass) resin thickened with something - cabusil (powdered glass) or
another resin filler.  However, I still fit the blocks as closely as I
can.  Resin is just backup.  It's cheap (epoxy is not, I know) and just
takes a couple of extra minutes to spread on and trim later.  I know some
of you are asking: yea, but can you take the plate out?  Sure, if you can
get anything to stick to a piece of cast iron covered with graphite or
chalk, you're using the wrong stuff.  The only other pitfall is
spreading it on so that it squeezes up onto the webbing where there's no
graphite or chalk.  As a precaution, you can spray some (stable) mould
release on the webbing.  I've had to backtrack a couple of times (nobody's
perfect) with no problems.  The worst you can expect is having to spread
some more resin on.

Mark Story, RPT

mstory@ewu.edu
Eastern Washington University Music Department
Cheney, Washington, USA

On Sun, 19 Nov 1995 Tunrboy@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 95-11-19 22:58:24 EST, you write:
>
> >
> >I'd also like to know what kinds of concoctions people use on the plate
> >flanges to mark the high spots on the block.  (I'm using an alcohol and
> >graphite mix.  It works, but sure makes a mess)
> >
> >
>
> I've always used carpenters' chalk.  Blue powder in ketchup dispenser.  I
> chalk the plate, fit the block in and sand the blue chalk marks (high points)
> until 90-100% of the block is blue.  I've also toyed with epoxy for fitting
> the flange as tightly as possible.  It works in the short term, but I cannot
> know absolutely whether it will hold up over the years.  Anyone else try it?
>
> Eric Leatha
> Tunrboy@aol.com
>
>



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