[CAUT] Leather Bushings

Mark Schecter mark at schecterpiano.com
Thu Sep 1 14:27:27 MDT 2011


It still might be worth trying some to see whether a good lube like ProTek or powdered teflon would prevent squeaks. 

And while we're speculating about it, what about other tough hides, like alligator?

-- Mark Schecter



On Sep 1, 2011, at 12:45 PM, Dale Erwin <erwinspiano at aol.com> wrote:

> It squeaks on knuckles. Ask young Chnag
> 
> 
> Dale S. Erwin
> www.Erwinspiano.com
> 209-577-8397
> 209-985-0990
> Ronsen hammers--R&D
> "-pre-hung hammers"
> Sitka- Soundboard- Supplies
> Panels & Ribstock 
>  
>   
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: prescottpiano <prescottpiano at juno.com>
> To: caut <caut at ptg.org>
> Sent: Thu, Sep 1, 2011 12:35 pm
> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Leather Bushings
> 
> I can't find in the archives but it seems to me I once heard of using kangaroo leather as it was of uniform thickness.
> 
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
> 
> 
> -----Original message-----
> From: Dale Erwin <erwinspiano at aol.com>
> To: caut at ptg.org
> Sent: Thu, Sep 1, 2011 18:27:23 GMT+00:00
> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Leather Bushings
> 
> Kevein
>   For what its worth we have also been frustrated with the short life of cloth bushings in high use situations.  I do have a set installed on a high use D at a local college.and they have held up with out incident ie squeaks etc. I set them up at as close to zero side play as I could get away with and it took a year for them to play in so that there was nominal clearance.  In other words a perfect fit. Untill they got to this point though there was a comment about the friction when aggressive playing  forced the key against the side of the pin.
>   They are more problematic to install. Trix is the bushing queen and she says its a headache.  The issue is getting the right thickness of leather so fit come out just right. It is possible to shrink and iron felt but nos so with leather.
>  The upside is they hold up. Its important to put the slick or the smooth side against the pin.  I can't recall which....at this moment.... which it is.
> 
> 
> Dale S. Erwin
> www.Erwinspiano.com
> 209-577-8397
> 209-985-0990
> Ronsen hammers--R&D
> "-pre-hung hammers"
> Sitka- Soundboard- Supplies
> Panels & Ribstock 
>  
>   
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fortenberry, Kevin <kevin.fortenberry at ttu.edu>
> To: caut <caut at ptg.org>
> Sent: Thu, Sep 1, 2011 10:12 am
> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Leather Bushings
> 
> Roger and all, I have been enjoying this discussion about using leather 
> bushings. I am very interested in trying this on a few piano faculty pianos in 
> hopes that they will last LONGER. What I am getting from you so far is, install 
> only on balance rail as cloth on front is more quiet, and get leather from Forte 
> Piano in Canada since he has excellent quality in several different thicknesses. 
> I would assume hide glue. It also sounds like have a few different sizes on hand 
> would be good as the fit would be fairly critical. What about the final 
> fitting/sizing or if some come out inconsistent?  Do the heated cauls help with 
> this?  How about alchohol/water? 
> 
> Thanks for the help, Kevin Fortenberry, Texas Tech University
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of 
> caut-request at ptg.org
> Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 11:31 PM
> To: caut at ptg.org
> Subject: CAUT Digest, Vol 34, Issue 7
> 
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> Today's Topics:
> 
>    1. Re: B????sendorfer question (Roger Jolly)
>    2. Re: B????sendorfer question (Alan Eder)
>    3. Read your message before it gets deleted! (Badoo)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 14:31:32 -0600
> From: Roger Jolly <roger.j at sasktel.net>
> To: caut at ptg.org
> Subject: Re: [CAUT] B????sendorfer question
> Message-ID: <6.2.0.14.2.20110829141325.022cc918 at mail.sasktel.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
> 
> 
> Hi Alan,
>              I thought those pins were 0.135"? again I am going from my 
> faded memory, in which case use 0.137 cauls.  Use hide hot glue, don't push 
> the caul all the way in and use a razor blade to trim flush with the top of 
> the button.  Once trimmed push the caul down the extra 2 or 3 mm.
> You are correct about the glue and leather, very little wicking.
> When I have used the tan side to the pin, I've found it prone to squeaks.
> 
> The leather last at least 5 times longer.  I still bush the front rail with 
> cloth, it is quieter.  Because there is less key roll with leather BR 
> bushings the FR seems to also last longer.
> 
> We have converted most of our instruments to leather and are very pleased 
> with the results. Level and dip appears more stable. We have not had to re 
> bush any of the leather converts, and a number of these pianos were done 5 
> years ago.
> 
> Expect a spirited discussion on tan in and tan out. The above is just my 
> experience. Probably there is no right answer. I use a small artist brush 
> to coat the nap in Teflon powder. It seems to stay put long enough for the 
> nap to lay down.
> 
> The leather/maple button seems to be more stable with humidity swings.
> 
> Regards Roger
> 
> 
> At 01:59 PM 8/29/2011, you wrote:
> >Hi Roger,
> >
> >Thanks for the input on key bushing with leather. ? Nap towards the pin, 
> >eh? ? Not what I would have guessed (but I have zero experience bushing 
> >keys with leather at the moment, so what do I know?). ? Do you use hot 
> >animal hide glue? ? Any special considerations (vs. bushing w/ cloth)??
> >If my memory serves me correctly I use 1.1mm.
> >
> >... which would be about .043". ? I suppose the appropriate thickness of 
> >leather depends, as with cloth, on the difference between the size of the 
> >mortise and the size of the key pins (less whatever needs to be figured in 
> >for the glue line--and I imagine that leather will be less absorbent of 
> >glue than cloth, particularly if the glue is applied to the tanned side of 
> >the leather).
> >
> >Have you found leather to last substantially longer than cloth? ? And as 
> >it starts to wear, is there a way to resuscitate it (like there is with cloth)?
> >
> >Many thanks,
> >
> >Alan Eder
> >
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Roger Jolly <roger.j at sasktel.net>
> >To: caut <caut at ptg.org>
> >Sent: Mon, Aug 29, 2011 8:30 am
> >Subject: Re: [CAUT] B????sendorfer question
> >
> >
> >Hi Alan,
> >? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?  Get your leather from Jurgen at Piano Forte he 
> >sells it in several thicknesses, 0.1mm increments. I use it with the nap 
> >towards the pins, dusted with micro fine Teflon powder. No squeaky 
> >leather.?  If my memory serves me correctly I use 1.1mm.
> >
> >Regards Roger
> >
> >
> >
> >At 12:00 PM 8/29/2011, you wrote:
> >>Hi Ted,
> >>I will be rebushing with leather.
> >>
> >>I am about to rebush a set of keys with leather, a first-time experience 
> >>for me. ?? Any tips you would be willing to share?
> >>
> >>Thanks,
> >>
> >>Alan Eder
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>-----Original Message-----
> >>From: Edward Sambell <<mailto:esambell at yahoo.com>esambell at yahoo.com>
> >>To: caut <<mailto:caut at ptg.org>caut at ptg.org>
> >>Sent: Sat, Aug 27, 2011 9:42 am
> >>Subject: Re: [CAUT] B????sendorfer question
> >>
> >>Stan,
> >>
> >>I have worked on many Bosendorfers and the keypin diameters were .135". 
> >>In fact I am doing one now, and it too has .135" on both rails. I will be 
> >>rebushing with leather. The keys are made by Herrberger Brooks (UK) but 
> >>this size seems to be common with European pianos.
> >>
> >>Regards, Ted Sambell
> >>
> >>From: Stan Kroeker <smkroeker at shaw.ca>
> >>To: caut at ptg.org
> >>Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 1:26:03 PM
> >>Subject: [CAUT] B????sendorfer question
> >>Hello all,
> >>Have just received a set of B????sendorfer keys from a colleague for 
> >>rebushing and am worried that the keypin diameters may not have been 
> >>measured accurately.???  Is anyone able to share these specs?
> >>Best regards from the sun-baked Canadian prairie!
> >>Stan Kroeker, RPT
> -------------- next part --------------
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 17:40:22 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Alan Eder <reggaepass at aol.com>
> To: caut at ptg.org
> Subject: Re: [CAUT] B????sendorfer question
> Message-ID: <8CE34AB63E831D2-146C-3F3BF at Webmail-m118.sysops.aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi Roger,
> 
> 
> Thanks so much for your detailed response.  Lots of very useful information.  
> 
> 
> Mucho appreciado!
> 
> 
> Alan
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Jolly <roger.j at sasktel.net>
> To: caut <caut at ptg.org>
> Sent: Mon, Aug 29, 2011 9:46 am
> Subject: Re: [CAUT] B????sendorfer question
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Alan,
>             Ithought those pins were 0.135"? again I am going from my 
> fadedmemory, in which case use 0.137 cauls.  Use hide hot glue, don'tpush the 
> caul all the way in and use a razor blade to trim flush with thetop of the 
> button.  Once trimmed push the caul down the extra 2 or 3mm.
> You are correct about the glue and leather, very little wicking.
> When I have used the tan side to the pin, I've found it prone tosqueaks.
> 
> The leather last at least 5 times longer.  I still bush the frontrail with 
> cloth, it is quieter.  Because there is less key roll withleather BR bushings 
> the FR seems to also last longer.
> 
> We have converted most of our instruments to leather and are very pleasedwith 
> the results. Level and dip appears more stable. We have not had tore bush any of 
> the leather converts, and a number of these pianos weredone 5 years ago.
> 
> Expect a spirited discussion on tan in and tan out. The above is just 
> myexperience. Probably there is no right answer. I use a small artist brushto 
> coat the nap in Teflon powder. It seems to stay put long enough forthe nap to 
> lay down.
> 
> The leather/maple button seems to be more stable with humidityswings.
> 
> Regards Roger
> 
> 
> At 01:59 PM 8/29/2011, you wrote:
> 
> Hi Roger, 
> 
> Thanks for the input on key bushing with leather. ? Nap towards the pin,eh? ? 
> Not what I would have guessed (but I have zero experience bushingkeys with 
> leather at the moment, so what do I know?). ? Do you use hotanimal hide glue? ? 
> Any special considerations (vs. bushing w/ cloth)??
> 
> If my memory serves me correctly I use 1.1mm.
> 
> 
> ... which would be about .043". ? I suppose the appropriatethickness of leather 
> depends, as with cloth, on the difference betweenthe size of the mortise and the 
> size of the key pins (less whatever needsto be figured in for the glue line--and 
> I imagine that leather will beless absorbent of glue than cloth, particularly if 
> the glue is applied tothe tanned side of the leather).
> 
> Have you found leather to last substantially longer than cloth? ? And asit 
> starts to wear, is there a way to resuscitate it (like there is withcloth)?
> 
> Many thanks,
> 
> Alan Eder
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Jolly <roger.j at sasktel.net>
> To: caut <caut at ptg.org>
> Sent: Mon, Aug 29, 2011 8:30 am
> Subject: Re: [CAUT] B????sendorfer question
> 
> 
> Hi Alan,
> ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?  Get your leather from Jurgen at PianoForte he sells 
> it in several thicknesses, 0.1mm increments. I use it withthe nap towards the 
> pins, dusted with micro fine Teflon powder. Nosqueaky leather.?  If my memory 
> serves me correctly I use1.1mm.
> 
> Regards Roger
> 
> 
> 
> At 12:00 PM 8/29/2011, you wrote:
> 
> Hi Ted,
> I will be rebushing with leather.
> 
> 
> I am about to rebush a set of keys with leather, a first-timeexperience for me. 
> ?? Any tips you would be willing to share? 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Alan Eder
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Edward Sambell<esambell at yahoo.com>
> To: caut <caut at ptg.org>
> Sent: Sat, Aug 27, 2011 9:42 am
> Subject: Re: [CAUT] B????sendorfer question
> 
> Stan,
> 
> I have worked on many Bosendorfers and the keypin diameters were.135". In fact I 
> am doing one now, and it too has .135" on bothrails. I will be rebushing with 
> leather. The keys are made by HerrbergerBrooks (UK) but this size seems to be 
> common with Europeanpianos.
> 
> Regards, Ted Sambell
> 
> 
> From: Stan Kroeker<smkroeker at shaw.ca>
> To: caut at ptg.org
> Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 1:26:03 PM
> Subject: [CAUT] B????sendorfer question
> Hello all,
> 
> Have just received a set of B????sendorfer keys from a colleague forrebushing 
> and am worried that the keypin diameters may not have beenmeasured 
> accurately.???  Is anyone able to share these specs?
> 
> Best regards from the sun-baked Canadian prairie!
> 
> Stan Kroeker, RPT
> 
> 
>  
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> Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 04:23:55 +0000
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> To: caut at ptg.org
> Subject: [CAUT] Read your message before it gets deleted!
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