[CAUT] Leather Bushings

Roger Jolly roger.j at sasktel.net
Thu Sep 1 14:18:50 MDT 2011


Hi Kevin,
                  The cauls should be all that you need, with very little 
squeezing of the bushing to get a good fit.
  I notice Dale likes tan side to the pin. that may be great in the 
California climate, but in our neck of the woods it's squeaks in our very 
dry winters. The beauty of leather is that it's stable with weather 
changes, and you can't easily shrink it, if you use alchohol/water, the 
leather will dry out very hard, so don't even try.
  Order enough 1.1mm to test, and then go up or down in size to suit your 
needs.  You should shoot for 0.002" larger than the pins for your cauls.
With regards to various supplies, the uniform thickness of the product 
Jurgen sells, makes for an easy job.

Leather does not fold over for a tight corner fit, in the same manner as 
bushing cloth.  Another reason I do not care for it on the front rails.

I've done dozens of keyboards in the manner I described, and leather bush 
all my rebuild work.

Regards Roger


At 11:06 AM 9/1/2011, you wrote:
>Roger and all, I have been enjoying this discussion about using leather 
>bushings. I am very interested in trying this on a few piano faculty 
>pianos in hopes that they will last LONGER. What I am getting from you so 
>far is, install only on balance rail as cloth on front is more quiet, and 
>get leather from Forte Piano in Canada since he has excellent quality in 
>several different thicknesses. I would assume hide glue. It also sounds 
>like have a few different sizes on hand would be good as the fit would be 
>fairly critical. What about the final fitting/sizing or if some come out 
>inconsistent?  Do the heated cauls help with this?  How about alchohol/water?
>
>Thanks for the help, Kevin Fortenberry, Texas Tech University
>
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of 
>caut-request at ptg.org
>Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 11:31 PM
>To: caut at ptg.org
>Subject: CAUT Digest, Vol 34, Issue 7
>
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>Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: B????sendorfer question (Roger Jolly)
>    2. Re: B????sendorfer question (Alan Eder)
>    3. Read your message before it gets deleted! (Badoo)
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Message: 1
>Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 14:31:32 -0600
>From: Roger Jolly <roger.j at sasktel.net>
>To: caut at ptg.org
>Subject: Re: [CAUT] B????sendorfer question
>Message-ID: <6.2.0.14.2.20110829141325.022cc918 at mail.sasktel.net>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
>
>
>Hi Alan,
>              I thought those pins were 0.135"? again I am going from my
>faded memory, in which case use 0.137 cauls.  Use hide hot glue, don't push
>the caul all the way in and use a razor blade to trim flush with the top of
>the button.  Once trimmed push the caul down the extra 2 or 3 mm.
>You are correct about the glue and leather, very little wicking.
>When I have used the tan side to the pin, I've found it prone to squeaks.
>
>The leather last at least 5 times longer.  I still bush the front rail with
>cloth, it is quieter.  Because there is less key roll with leather BR
>bushings the FR seems to also last longer.
>
>We have converted most of our instruments to leather and are very pleased
>with the results. Level and dip appears more stable. We have not had to re
>bush any of the leather converts, and a number of these pianos were done 5
>years ago.
>
>Expect a spirited discussion on tan in and tan out. The above is just my
>experience. Probably there is no right answer. I use a small artist brush
>to coat the nap in Teflon powder. It seems to stay put long enough for the
>nap to lay down.
>
>The leather/maple button seems to be more stable with humidity swings.
>
>Regards Roger
>
>
>At 01:59 PM 8/29/2011, you wrote:
> >Hi Roger,
> >
> >Thanks for the input on key bushing with leather. ? Nap towards the pin,
> >eh? ? Not what I would have guessed (but I have zero experience bushing
> >keys with leather at the moment, so what do I know?). ? Do you use hot
> >animal hide glue? ? Any special considerations (vs. bushing w/ cloth)??
> >If my memory serves me correctly I use 1.1mm.
> >
> >... which would be about .043". ? I suppose the appropriate thickness of
> >leather depends, as with cloth, on the difference between the size of the
> >mortise and the size of the key pins (less whatever needs to be figured in
> >for the glue line--and I imagine that leather will be less absorbent of
> >glue than cloth, particularly if the glue is applied to the tanned side of
> >the leather).
> >
> >Have you found leather to last substantially longer than cloth? ? And as
> >it starts to wear, is there a way to resuscitate it (like there is with 
> cloth)?
> >
> >Many thanks,
> >
> >Alan Eder
> >
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Roger Jolly <roger.j at sasktel.net>
> >To: caut <caut at ptg.org>
> >Sent: Mon, Aug 29, 2011 8:30 am
> >Subject: Re: [CAUT] B????sendorfer question
> >
> >
> >Hi Alan,
> >? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?  Get your leather from Jurgen at Piano Forte he
> >sells it in several thicknesses, 0.1mm increments. I use it with the nap
> >towards the pins, dusted with micro fine Teflon powder. No squeaky
> >leather.?  If my memory serves me correctly I use 1.1mm.
> >
> >Regards Roger
> >
> >
> >
> >At 12:00 PM 8/29/2011, you wrote:
> >>Hi Ted,
> >>I will be rebushing with leather.
> >>
> >>I am about to rebush a set of keys with leather, a first-time experience
> >>for me. ?? Any tips you would be willing to share?
> >>
> >>Thanks,
> >>
> >>Alan Eder
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>-----Original Message-----
> >>From: Edward Sambell <<mailto:esambell at yahoo.com>esambell at yahoo.com>
> >>To: caut <<mailto:caut at ptg.org>caut at ptg.org>
> >>Sent: Sat, Aug 27, 2011 9:42 am
> >>Subject: Re: [CAUT] B????sendorfer question
> >>
> >>Stan,
> >>
> >>I have worked on many Bosendorfers and the keypin diameters were .135".
> >>In fact I am doing one now, and it too has .135" on both rails. I will be
> >>rebushing with leather. The keys are made by Herrberger Brooks (UK) but
> >>this size seems to be common with European pianos.
> >>
> >>Regards, Ted Sambell
> >>
> >>From: Stan Kroeker <smkroeker at shaw.ca>
> >>To: caut at ptg.org
> >>Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 1:26:03 PM
> >>Subject: [CAUT] B????sendorfer question
> >>Hello all,
> >>Have just received a set of B????sendorfer keys from a colleague for
> >>rebushing and am worried that the keypin diameters may not have been
> >>measured accurately.???  Is anyone able to share these specs?
> >>Best regards from the sun-baked Canadian prairie!
> >>Stan Kroeker, RPT
>-------------- next part --------------
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>------------------------------
>
>Message: 2
>Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 17:40:22 -0400 (EDT)
>From: Alan Eder <reggaepass at aol.com>
>To: caut at ptg.org
>Subject: Re: [CAUT] B????sendorfer question
>Message-ID: <8CE34AB63E831D2-146C-3F3BF at Webmail-m118.sysops.aol.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
>Hi Roger,
>
>
>Thanks so much for your detailed response.  Lots of very useful information.
>
>
>Mucho appreciado!
>
>
>Alan
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Roger Jolly <roger.j at sasktel.net>
>To: caut <caut at ptg.org>
>Sent: Mon, Aug 29, 2011 9:46 am
>Subject: Re: [CAUT] B????sendorfer question
>
>
>
>Hi Alan,
>             Ithought those pins were 0.135"? again I am going from my 
> fadedmemory, in which case use 0.137 cauls.  Use hide hot glue, don'tpush 
> the caul all the way in and use a razor blade to trim flush with thetop 
> of the button.  Once trimmed push the caul down the extra 2 or 3mm.
>You are correct about the glue and leather, very little wicking.
>When I have used the tan side to the pin, I've found it prone tosqueaks.
>
>The leather last at least 5 times longer.  I still bush the frontrail with 
>cloth, it is quieter.  Because there is less key roll withleather BR 
>bushings the FR seems to also last longer.
>
>We have converted most of our instruments to leather and are very 
>pleasedwith the results. Level and dip appears more stable. We have not 
>had tore bush any of the leather converts, and a number of these pianos 
>weredone 5 years ago.
>
>Expect a spirited discussion on tan in and tan out. The above is just 
>myexperience. Probably there is no right answer. I use a small artist 
>brushto coat the nap in Teflon powder. It seems to stay put long enough 
>forthe nap to lay down.
>
>The leather/maple button seems to be more stable with humidityswings.
>
>Regards Roger
>
>
>At 01:59 PM 8/29/2011, you wrote:
>
>Hi Roger,
>
>Thanks for the input on key bushing with leather. ? Nap towards the 
>pin,eh? ? Not what I would have guessed (but I have zero experience 
>bushingkeys with leather at the moment, so what do I know?). ? Do you use 
>hotanimal hide glue? ? Any special considerations (vs. bushing w/ cloth)??
>
>If my memory serves me correctly I use 1.1mm.
>
>
>... which would be about .043". ? I suppose the appropriatethickness of 
>leather depends, as with cloth, on the difference betweenthe size of the 
>mortise and the size of the key pins (less whatever needsto be figured in 
>for the glue line--and I imagine that leather will beless absorbent of 
>glue than cloth, particularly if the glue is applied tothe tanned side of 
>the leather).
>
>Have you found leather to last substantially longer than cloth? ? And asit 
>starts to wear, is there a way to resuscitate it (like there is withcloth)?
>
>Many thanks,
>
>Alan Eder
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Roger Jolly <roger.j at sasktel.net>
>To: caut <caut at ptg.org>
>Sent: Mon, Aug 29, 2011 8:30 am
>Subject: Re: [CAUT] B????sendorfer question
>
>
>Hi Alan,
>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?  Get your leather from Jurgen at PianoForte he 
>sells it in several thicknesses, 0.1mm increments. I use it withthe nap 
>towards the pins, dusted with micro fine Teflon powder. Nosqueaky 
>leather.?  If my memory serves me correctly I use1.1mm.
>
>Regards Roger
>
>
>
>At 12:00 PM 8/29/2011, you wrote:
>
>Hi Ted,
>I will be rebushing with leather.
>
>
>I am about to rebush a set of keys with leather, a first-timeexperience 
>for me. ?? Any tips you would be willing to share?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Alan Eder
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Edward Sambell<esambell at yahoo.com>
>To: caut <caut at ptg.org>
>Sent: Sat, Aug 27, 2011 9:42 am
>Subject: Re: [CAUT] B????sendorfer question
>
>Stan,
>
>I have worked on many Bosendorfers and the keypin diameters were.135". In 
>fact I am doing one now, and it too has .135" on bothrails. I will be 
>rebushing with leather. The keys are made by HerrbergerBrooks (UK) but 
>this size seems to be common with Europeanpianos.
>
>Regards, Ted Sambell
>
>
>From: Stan Kroeker<smkroeker at shaw.ca>
>To: caut at ptg.org
>Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 1:26:03 PM
>Subject: [CAUT] B????sendorfer question
>Hello all,
>
>Have just received a set of B????sendorfer keys from a colleague 
>forrebushing and am worried that the keypin diameters may not have 
>beenmeasured accurately.???  Is anyone able to share these specs?
>
>Best regards from the sun-baked Canadian prairie!
>
>Stan Kroeker, RPT
>
>
>
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>Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 04:23:55 +0000
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>To: caut at ptg.org
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