[CAUT] Fw: Steinway Pedal Lyre Regulation After Reconditioning

[Ed Sutton]

I take the liberty of forwarding Debbie's response.
I should have mentioned the screws.
I've also done this on some older Mason & Hamlins to good effect. I don't remember their current design.
Ed Sutton

----- Original Message ----- 
From: DCyr141833 at aol.com 
To: ed440 at mindspring.com 
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 6:44 AM
Subject: Re: [CAUT] Steinway Pedal Lyre Regulation After Reconditioning


I have found this to help a whole lot!  And there is often room to move the upstop rail forward as much as 1/4" on some damper systems.  You will also need longer screws to tie the upstop rail to the belly rail.

Debbie Cyr
Registered Piano Technician
508-202-2862 cell 

In a message dated 8/16/2010 7:20:20 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, ed440 at mindspring.com writes:
  You can make some improvement in the geometry by shimming the upstop rail as far forward from the belly rail as the damper wire flanges will allow. Heavy cardboard front key punchings will do the job. Worth a try, since it takes 10 minutes.
  Ed  Sutton
    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: Kidwell, Ted W 
    To: caut at ptg.org 
    Sent: Monday, August 16, 2010 4:29 PM
    Subject: Re: [CAUT] Steinway Pedal Lyre Regulation After Reconditioning


    I have just this condition on a few Bs I have around here. If someone would repost a picture or two of Jon’s conversions I would be much obliged.

     

    Ted Kidwell, RPT

    California State University, Sacramento

    Capistrano Hall, rm. 153

    6000 J Street

    Sacramento, CA 95819-6015

    916.278.6737

     

     

    From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Ed Foote
    Sent: Monday, August 16, 2010 12:08 PM
    To: caut at ptg.org
    Subject: Re: [CAUT] Steinway Pedal Lyre Regulation After Reconditioning

     

    I wrote:  

    “When the damper pedal is set to lift the dampers almost as high as the keys, and the upstop rail is set to touch the underlevers when they are lifted by the key end felts, you will find an increased amount of travel in the underlevers when the pedal is not employed.”

    Paul writes: 
    > I understand everything you said except the above statement. 

    When the tray is lifted, the underlevers' centerpins are raised, since they are on a radius (proximally) from the axis of rotation of the tray. 
            Assume the key has lifted the underlever, so it is held by the key end felt at one end and its centerpin at the other. Now, lower the  stop rail until it touches the top of the underlever and it can't move upwards.  If you now raise the tray while holding the key down, the tray will lift the centerpin upwards, creating a downward force by using the stoprail as a fulcrum. In extreme examples, the pedal can be felt in the key, or aftertouch can get a totally uneven feeling with the pedal down. It can hide as bad keydip when keys are stopped by the rail's inteference at the distal end instead of the front punching under the finger.
          To prevent excessive wear on the upstop rail, as well as avoid all sorts of weird feeling down there in the aftertouch area, I have to set the upstop rail higher than ideal for key playing, just so that if we hit the pedal while we have a key depressed,(it happens), we won't be trying to force the keyend down. This increased clearance is a high price to pay for a simple engineering error. It is easy to remedy if you are ready to redrill the tray blocks and move pins around. 
       Jon Page has posted some of his conversions, in which the centers are shared by underlever and tray. It makes a world of difference in taking that slap out of the feel of the piano. 

    Hope that helps
    Ed Foote RPT
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