[CAUT] Glue Strength for Pedal Lyre Repair

[David Ilvedson]

Paul,

You removed the lock plate before gluing?

David Ilvedson, RPT
Pacifica, CA  94044

----- Original message ----------------------------------------
From: "Paul Milesi, RPT" <paul at pmpiano.com>
To: pianotech at ptg.org; caut at ptg.org
Received: 4/30/2010 8:38:48 AM
Subject: [CAUT] Glue Strength for Pedal Lyre Repair


>Many thanks to all who contributed to my education the past couple of days!
>I ended up gluing the two original top block pieces together, clamped for 24
>hours, then drilled and inserted three 1/2" hardwood dowels.  Finally, I put
>a little stain on the dowel ends to blend them with the lyre finish
>(refinished years ago by somebody else).

>While aware of Steinway lyre construction using posts and wedges, I thought
>it best not to remove remaining top block piece from posts or remove the
>wedges.  I felt re-inserting wedges after gluing the top block might split
>my glue joint open again.  I just tried to take advantage of the wide
>surface area between the two pieces to achieve a good glue joint.

>Question about the doweling:  When I drilled the 1/2" holes, my dowels were
>a little lose, not a tight fit that needed to be pounded or squeezed in.  I
>assume with enough glue, this is OK?  When I use hammer shanks for wood
>filler, the shanks are generally tight in the hole I've drilled.  Not sure
>why these turned out differently.  If anybody reads this paragraph, I'd sure
>appreciate insight into whether tight fit is necessary, and how to best
>achieve it.  Thinking about this because I know clamping a glue joint is so
>important.

>Pix attached.

>Paul Milesi, RPT
>Washington, DC
>(202) 667-3136
>E-mail:  paul at pmpiano.com
>Website:  http://www.pmpiano.com