I wouldn't remove the wedges unless that was where you had looseness...which wasn't the problem. Sounds like a good repair. You need enough space around the dowels to get glue in otherwise you may have starved glue joint. David Ilvedson, RPT Pacifica, CA 94044 ----- Original message ---------------------------------------- From: "Paul Milesi, RPT" <paul at pmpiano.com> To: pianotech at ptg.org; caut at ptg.org Received: 4/30/2010 8:38:48 AM Subject: [CAUT] Glue Strength for Pedal Lyre Repair >Many thanks to all who contributed to my education the past couple of days! >I ended up gluing the two original top block pieces together, clamped for 24 >hours, then drilled and inserted three 1/2" hardwood dowels. Finally, I put >a little stain on the dowel ends to blend them with the lyre finish >(refinished years ago by somebody else). >While aware of Steinway lyre construction using posts and wedges, I thought >it best not to remove remaining top block piece from posts or remove the >wedges. I felt re-inserting wedges after gluing the top block might split >my glue joint open again. I just tried to take advantage of the wide >surface area between the two pieces to achieve a good glue joint. >Question about the doweling: When I drilled the 1/2" holes, my dowels were >a little lose, not a tight fit that needed to be pounded or squeezed in. I >assume with enough glue, this is OK? When I use hammer shanks for wood >filler, the shanks are generally tight in the hole I've drilled. Not sure >why these turned out differently. If anybody reads this paragraph, I'd sure >appreciate insight into whether tight fit is necessary, and how to best >achieve it. Thinking about this because I know clamping a glue joint is so >important. >Pix attached. >Paul Milesi, RPT >Washington, DC >(202) 667-3136 >E-mail: paul at pmpiano.com >Website: http://www.pmpiano.com
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