I have also been using the molding and trim glue for misc. repairs, and really like it, but I have not tried it on a whole set of hammers. A little extra clearance is needed for these thicker glues, which is no problem as long as you plan ahead. I also just ordered a bottle of the Wessell, Nickel and Gross glue but did not get a response from them when I asked for further details as to what type of glue it is. So I am glad to know that it is the Franklin 65 glue. I also totally agree with Dave as to the use of diagonal side cutters when removing old hammers, after Charlie Fry demonstrated the technique a few years ago. I will also add that just good quality pair of these cutters from your local hardware store, such as Channel Lock brand or Craftsman work really well, and are extremely handy for other uses (IE: cutting the excess length from those plastic zip ties when installing Damp-Chaser systems, and hundreds of other uses). Kevin Fortenberry -----Original Message----- From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of caut-request at ptg.org Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2009 3:52 PM To: caut at ptg.org Subject: CAUT Digest, Vol 13, Issue 8 Send CAUT mailing list submissions to caut at ptg.org To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://ptg.org/mailman/listinfo/caut or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to caut-request at ptg.org You can reach the person managing the list at caut-owner at ptg.org When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of CAUT digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: glue/hammers (Ron Nossaman) 2. Re: glue/hammers (Ron Nossaman) 3. Re: glue/hammers (Porritt, David) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 03 Nov 2009 15:37:45 -0600 From: Ron Nossaman <rnossaman at cox.net> To: caut at ptg.org Subject: Re: [CAUT] glue/hammers Message-ID: <4AF0A2A9.3040605 at cox.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Paul T Williams wrote: > That's cool! > > Where does one get glycerin? get a pint or so of Nitroglycerin, and boil it down? Or maybe just ask at a pharmacy. Ron N ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 03 Nov 2009 15:33:42 -0600 From: Ron Nossaman <rnossaman at cox.net> To: caut at ptg.org Subject: Re: [CAUT] glue/hammers Message-ID: <4AF0A1B6.6040107 at cox.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed It's interesting to me that so many techs are using Titebond's Molding glue for hammers. After so many years of hearing sworn testimony, often frothing, that a less than glass hard glue will kill hammer tone catastrophically, it pleases me to near no such negative claims about as soft a glue as this stuff is. There's a more plausible smell of reality about it. Alan, I suspect the pliability of the glue is at least somewhat responsible for the joints' durability under humidity extremes. I use hot hide, not for any believed magic tonal properties, but because I like the stuff and am comfortable working with it. Since I started (somewhere around 30 years ago) beveling the bore edge before gluing the hammers on, I haven't had a loose hammer with it. It seems that scraping the glue off the shank with a sharp edged hole in the hammer molding is counterproductive to good glue joints. Whooda thought? If you want a very quick set easy to work cold glue that dries crispy hard, try some of WN&G's glue. It's Franklin's Assembly 65. Also good stuff. Ron N ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 3 Nov 2009 15:50:58 -0600 From: "Porritt, David" <dporritt at mail.smu.edu> To: "caut at ptg.org" <caut at ptg.org> Subject: Re: [CAUT] glue/hammers Message-ID: <78F73DAE2483A747AD0E4A3BE57169DA2336677ECA at SXMBXA.systems.smu.edu> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Jim: When I?m going to replace hammers but reuse the shanks, I just cut them off with big diagonal wire cutters. Once you?ve split the hammer molding, it?s pretty easy to remove them. I don?t try to save used hammers ? if I were I?d leave them on! dp David M. Porritt, RPT dporritt at smu.edu<mailto:dporritt at smu.edu> From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Jim Busby Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2009 3:06 PM To: caut at ptg.org Subject: Re: [CAUT] glue/hammers Alan, Moulding glue is great. I mainly went back to hide because of its easy removal (we replace hammers a lot), strength, ease of use (using the ?new? techniques) and ?foolproof? bond ? once you do it right. But moulding glue works VERY well. But take this class! This fellow (Shepherd) has written two books. One has something like ?1000 tricks?? I don?t own that book yet. Stephen Shepherd isn?t a piano tech, but he will be teaching the class with Vince who is a world-class technician. Best, Jim From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of reggaepass at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2009 1:51 PM To: caut at ptg.org Subject: Re: [CAUT] glue/hammers Henry, Well, I was about to tell you that I thought moulding glue was the way to go, without any equivocation. But if Jim Busby was humbled by all he didn't know about hide glue and is going back to it, I may feel the same way after attending Vince's class in Las Vegas. In the mean time though, we have pianos whose hammers are glued on with either hide glue or whatever Yamaha, Steinway, Baldwin and Bosendorfer have used over the past thirty years. The hammer sets I have hung using moulding glue are the ONLY ones in our inventory that have not developed loose glue joints between hammer and shank. Our RH swings from 10% 60% over the course of the year. YMMV, but if loose hammerheads are an issue in your situation, I would give moulding glue a shot. Alan Eder -----Original Message----- From: Jim Busby <jim_busby at byu.edu> To: caut at ptg.org <caut at ptg.org> Sent: Tue, Nov 3, 2009 12:02 pm Subject: Re: [CAUT] glue/hammers Hello Henry, I?ve used several glues, moulding glue being the favorite for years, but since Vince Mrykalo?s hide glue class I went back to hide. Any problems I ?thought? I had with hide glue are outweighed by the advantages. Stephen Shepherd and Vince will be giving a class in Las Vegas at the convention and you may be surprised at how many tricks these guys have. I was humbled by all I DIDN?T know. Jim Busby BYU From: caut-bounces at ptg.org<mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org> [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org<mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org?>] On Behalf Of Dr. Henry Nicolaides Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2009 12:42 PM To: College and University Technicians Subject: [CAUT] glue/hammers Hi List, Has anyone used and had success with other type glues in replacement of hammers? I've been wondering about the new Titebond white Moulding and Trim glue as well as the yellow glues. Seems like out of the bottle application would be an advantage especially when it is not anticipated to remove the hammer at a later date. Ease of use vs. ease of changing out hammers periodically.? Henry Nicolaides Piano Technician, School of Music Southern Illinois University Carbondale, Illinois 62901 henryn at siu.edu<mailto:henryn at siu.edu> ________________________________ Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place. Try it now.<http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MFESRP_Local_MapsMenu_Resturants_1x1> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/caut.php/attachments/20091103/b7ef8ab3/attachment.htm> ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ CAUT mailing list CAUT at ptg.org http://ptg.org/mailman/listinfo/caut End of CAUT Digest, Vol 13, Issue 8 ***********************************
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