On Tue, Jul 14, 2009 at 11:23 AM, Susan Kline <skline at peak.org> wrote: > I need some of the large size fasteners for an old Gulbransen grand missing > a leg screw and a lyre screw -- and I think two of the screws on there may > be mis-sized replacements. > > Schaff says to phone for availability and price, so perhaps they don't have > a complete inventory anymore? I'm thinking of laying in a supply of sizes 16 > to about 20, in varying lengths, just so that if this comes up again I have > something to reach for. The hardware stores around here all stop at size 14. > > > You can go years and years without needing oversized fasteners, but > sometimes all at once without warning nothing else will do. Does anybody > have any favorite online sources? > > thanks in advance > > Susan Kline > OSU, Newport Arts Center > > P.S. Wandering hammers -- good advice all round. I wouldn't stop with the > strips of sandpaper, I'd add lockwashers as several have suggested. Then the > bottoming wouldn't be a problem, and there'd be some leeway in case humidity > changes tend to loosen the screws. In fact, if the lockwashers were > installed in the damp season, then they'd maintain tightness through the dry > season without letting the wood fibers be crushed when the humidity rose > again. I'm assuming a strong weather shift ... we're getting more of that > than we used to in Oregon -- summer rains, wasn't our style until three > years ago, has been since then. > > At 03:40 PM 7/10/2009, you wrote: > > >Then I'll remove the sandpaper and try the 2 strip approach.? What grit > would someone suggest? > > I get rolls of sandpaper from Klingspor. > www.woodworkingshop.com > > For flat hammer rails: > item # AR20268: 220 grit, F weight paper > > For S&S rails: > item # SR98760: 320 grit on cloth > double sided tape to adhere to moulded rail is available at a hardware > store as 1/2" window plastic mounting tape. > > Washers I use for S&S hammer flanges: Part Number: 98017A624 > http://www.mcmaster.com/#98017a624/=2ou8qk > > > With the abrasive rolls, I cut long strips, I don't like seams. > > Use a small drill bit and make the pilot hole a little deeper to insure > full insertion as Marcel mentioned. Washers too. > > -- > > > > Regards, > > Jon Page > > Hi Susan, Another "source" of those large screws is old plate screws. Whenever I have had to bolt through a piano with a back separation, I save the screwsI removed. I now have a large supply of various length flathead screws both slotted and phillips drive. I bought several rolls of heavy grit (60 and 80) 1" and 1&1/2" from Grizzly years ago for a very low price. They were quite long, 50 feet(?) and I still have a good supply. I seperate the strips to either side of the screw holes and glue them in with hide glue. I have used spring washers under flange screws as I've seen some of the Asian makers do and had good results. I also replace the screws with the Schaff #1548 when I replace flanges with aftermarket parts on non S&S grands. I've found the countersink in the flange isn't as deep and I have had old screws break off, for the small price, less than $4 for 100 replacement screws is well worth it. Mike -- I intend to live forever. So far, so good. Steven Wright Michael Magness Magness Piano Service 608-786-4404 www.IFixPianos.com email mike at ifixpianos.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/caut.php/attachments/20090714/2dd29d09/attachment.htm>
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