[CAUT] Slipperry Ivories

[Susan Kline]

At 09:17 PM 12/8/2009, you wrote:
>Susan,
>
>So I understand...you scuff a little on the ivory and then work it 
>in with your finger/body heat?
>
>David Ilvedson, RPT
>Pacifica, CA  94044

That's the idea, David. I rub it around until I don't see any little
crumbs of it on the ivory, and I've rubbed most of the playing area.
The friction from rubbing it provides the heat to smooth it around.

For the sharps (which are usually more important to make slip-proof
than the naturals) I focus more on the front region of the tops
rather than right back at the tail ends -- fingers will usually be
slipping off the fronts rather than back near the fallboard.

Susan


>----- Original message ----------------------------------------
>From: "Susan Kline" <skline at peak.org>
>To: caut at ptg.org
>Received: 12/8/2009 8:58:56 PM
>Subject: Re: [CAUT] Slipperry Ivories
>
>
>
> >>I have NEVER heard of using beeswax on piano keys--maybe I will try
> >>it someday, just to see.
>
> >The point being, it's easy to keep a little piece of real beeswax in
> >a small ziploc bag in your kit, so that if an artist complains about
> >slippery keys, you can fix the problem in minutes. No taking the keys
> >home and laboriously using steel wool and buffing, hoping to end up
> >with just the right feeling.
>
> >Also, I like reversible techniques. It wouldn't be that hard to take
> >most of the beeswax back off if necessary, but you can't undo
> >sanding, buffing, etc.
>
> >Susan Kline